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Destination: KAMAKURA, Japan Chasing samurai warriors By Mike DeJong -- Special to Canoe Travel
I stared at him as long as I could in the early morning sunlight. But it did not matter. As hard as I looked, I just could not see Daibutsu blink. I guess when you have survived 750 years of earthquakes and tsunami, one solitary visitor from North America is not going to break your concentration. Daibutsu, the Great Buddha of Kamakura, is the main attraction in this historic Japanese city 51 kilometres south of Tokyo. And with good reason. He is an impressive sight. Built in 1252, Daibutsu measures more than thirteen metres from head to knee. He weighs an estimated 120 tons. The Kamakura statue is the second largest representation of the Buddhist deity in Japan. Only the Giant Buddha of Nara is larger. So impressed was Rudyard Kipling in 1892, that he called Daibutsu "God in human image made." That is pretty heady praise for an aging bronze statue. Even though Daibutsu's color has faded over the years, his countenance has not wavered. He remains seated in the classic meditative pose, legs crossed, with fingers softly touching. His massive head leans slightly forward - so much so, that you think he might fall over at any time. Daibutsu's placid demeanor reflects the Buddhist ideals of contemplation and reflection. To the thousands of pilgrims who visit him each year, Daibutsu represents calmness and serenity. This is amazing, considering the fact that the temple that once surrounded him washed away in a tsunami in 1495. A massive earthquake also destroyed his base in 1923. On this day, I have no doubt that Daibutsu will survive a few centuries more. Tearing myself away from the Great Buddha was difficult, but not impossible in Kamakura. The cultural legacy of this picturesque coastal city is rich and impressive. In fact, Kamakura rivals Kyoto for historical significance.
Kamakura was the site of Japan's first Shogunate, or military government. It is the perfect place to visit for people interested in Japanese history and culture, but unable to make the three-hour trip from Tokyo to Kyoto. After saying goodbye to Daibutsu on this bright and sunny winter's day, I strolled on down to the city's busy, medieval marketplace. There, the sweet smells of Japanese flavored beans and roasted rice crackers filled the air. Hot and crunchy, rice crackers are a Japanese treat. Their dry and salty taste is more like potato chips than the rice cereal squares your father used to make. After my brief snack, I walked a few blocks to the Hase Kannon Temple. I am glad that I had refueled, because I was about to face a terrible foe. * * * * The little samurai scowled at me in the early evening light. His expression suggested that I come no closer, or else I would feel the wrath of his battle sword. Behind him, several statues smirked accordingly. If there was to be violence, I could not look to them for moral support.
It is a good thing that the little samurai was not real. Or I was in for a fight. The little statue was one of many fascinating sculptures at the Hase Kannon Temple. This ancient place, also known as Hasedera, is one of the many shrines and cultural centers in Kamakura. Legend has it that Hasedera was established in the year 721 when a monk carved two images of Kannon, the goddess of mercy, from a large camphor tree. At more than nine metres tall, the statue is the largest wooden carving in Japan. With the late December winds blowing, I swear that I heard the goddess whispering to me, as I tossed a coin into the receptacle in front of her. * * * * After a day of encountering buddhas and samurai warriors, I needed sleep. But the next morning, I was ready to continue my search for Shogun. I boarded the Enoden Railway, a delightful local streetcar that links all of the main attractions in Kamakura. My first stop was the great temple of Engakuji, one of Kamakura's five great Zen temples. Engakuji is a mystical place, complete with giant cedar trees and moss-covered stones. Surely there must be a Shogun or two here! Walking through the temple's main gate, I was overwhelmed by the colors. Even in late December, the reds and golds of the Japanese maples stand out against the clear blue sky. The air here was also different: clean and clear, with a slight smell of incense, a welcome respite from the dense air of Tokyo. A few hawks circled overhead as I climbed the lengthy staircase at Engakuji. Perhaps I would see ninjas battling each other when I reached the top? At the summit, I did not find any ninjas. But I did discover Engakuji's temple bell, a Japanese national treasure. Monks ring this ancient bell only once a year. It takes great strength to bang it with a large, wooden log. Good thing no one asked me - I was too tired from climbing the stairs. Engakuji also contains the burial site of Tokimune Hojo, a 13th century leader who fended off two Mongolian invasions. I decided to pay the small fee to enter Hojo's domain, to see the mausoleum where he is buried. A kimono-clad woman startled me as she popped out from behind the shrine. She was there to offer us a cup of powdered green tea, which I drank in Hojo's honour. * * * * I did not find any ninjas or samurai warriors at Engakuji. But I nearly got run over by a monk at my next destination - the Kenchoji Temple. Kenchoji was built in 1253 and is the oldest Zen monastery in Japan. As I lined up to enter, a monk dressed in traditional garb ran past us. Maybe he was late for prayers? What would his penance be? I did not get the chance to ask. * * * * Things were a little less harrowing at Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, the final stop on my Kamakura tour. Tsurugaoka Hachimangu was established in1063 to honor Hachiman, the god of the samurai. Finally, I thought, I might see some sword play. Tsurugaoka Hachimangu is a massive complex, made up of numerous bright red buildings, surrounded by several pretty little ponds and massive ginkgo trees. It is also the city's most important shrine. One approaches Tsurugaoka Hachimangu gingerly, through the "flower tunnel." This pleasant array of azaleas and cherry trees was built to honor the pregnant wife of Yorimoto Minamoto. He moved Tsurugaoka Hachimangu to its present site in 1191. Yorimoto was Japan's first Shogun or military ruler. He established Kamakura as Japan's capital in 1192. In doing so, Yorimoto ushered in the era of Shogun rule that lasted some seven hundred years. I was nervous as I climbed another long staircase leading to the temple's main hall. That is because I passed a large ginkgo tree, said to be more than one thousand years old, at the top of the stairs. Sanemoto Minamoto, Japan's third Shogun, was assassinated by his own nephew on this very spot! Fortunately, I made it out of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu without any swords raised in anger. But not before checking out the fascinating samurai era weapons and artifacts in the temple's museum. There was also a thousand-year old kimono, said to be the oldest in Japan. On this day, angry samurai warriors would not be my nemesis. However, hunger pains were tearing at my stomach like a sharp sword. I was time to end my trip to Kamakura. After a tasty lunch on noodles and sashimi in one of Kamakura's delightfully traditional restaurants, I was back on the train to Tokyo. But with the ancient city's sights and tastes fresh in our minds, I knew that this "sayonara" to Kamakura would not be my last. * * * * GETTING THERE:
Air: Major airlines like American Airlines, Japan Airlines and Air Canada fly to Tokyo's Narita Airport.
Train: Kamakura is easily accessible by train from Tokyo.
WHERE TO STAY:
Prince Hotel
Hotel Izumi
Hotel Mets Kamakura Ofuna
INFORMATION:
www.japan-guide.com/e/e2166.html
ATTRACTIONS:
Hachimangu Shrine (Kamakura Station), Engakuji and Kenchoji Temples (Kitakamakura Station) and Great Buddha and Hasedera (Hase Station).
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