Photos by Jason Thiessen

The Castro -- the self-proclaimed "gayest place on earth" -- is a lively, energetic neighbourhood in central San Francisco. In a city of microclimates this is perhaps the most unique neighbourhood.

On what was once farmland outside the city, worked by European immigrants in the late nineteenth century, lies arguably San Francisco's most vibrant community. Located at the foot of Twin Peaks, which offers the city's best panoramic views, and adjacent to Market Street, this neighbourhood has become more and more appreciated by tourists over the past decade.

The main drag, Castro Street, is like any other compact and active inner-city thoroughfare except, perhaps, for the colorful rainbow flag hanging from each hydro pole... not to mention the giant one hanging at the confluence of Market and Castro, visible from miles away. The Castro bustles with activity, day and night.

The area has seen explosive growth over the years in the real estate market. Towering Victorian homes, painted every colour imaginable, line the streets and the pockets of those who are selling these 125-year-old statuesque abodes. Homes that may have cost $40,000 in the 1970's are now worth well over a million dollars today.

Intricate patterns and designs adorn the doors and famous bay windows with striking purple, pink and yellow pastels. The gay community which moved into the neighbourhood in the 1960's has restored these homes and to this day they draw the attention of tourists and real estate investors alike.

There is no lack of shopping options here, from funky novelty gifts at "Does Your Father Know?" to rare books at Aardvark, or even today's latest fashions at the mainstream Diesel store. Several shops have, in a not-so-discreet way, displayed in their windows, well, certain adult paraphernalia not suitable for all audiences. There are a lot of great art and furniture stores as well.

The streets are lined with restaurants, including such neighbourhood mainstays at The Cove on Castro. At the same location for decades, the decor is reminiscent of any small-town diner with coffee pots brewing in full view, plain yellow walls, a ceiling fan and a half-wall that runs the length of the place. My first clue that this was not just any diner was when I read what was on the back of one of the waiter's shirts: "I got a mouthful at the C.O.C."

I was in the mood for a solid lunch, so I ordered the meatloaf sandwich. An eclectic selection of music plays, including Barbara Mandrel, I think.

My waiter, Scott, sits down beside me, calls me "buddy" and, after a brief chat, asks if I am having fun in San Francisco. I tell him I am from Canada and he goes on to tell me how many people in town want to remove the city from the U.S. and geographically align it somehow with Canada -- something about our liberal attitudes toward social issues. I didn't quite catch it all as Scott, I discovered, has a propensity to keep talking as he walks away.

Later, Scott sits down to tell me what the desserts are. I order the tiramisu; it's big, soft, and sweet. Another waiter sits down for a chat with a new customer, clearly not new to him, and later shows the same patron the large rose tattoo on his upper right arm from across the room. There clearly are no boundaries in this place, but it somehow seems okay.

As I eat my dessert, a 50+ gentleman with a cowboy hat and tight jeans walks in and promptly receives a series of hugs from the staff and even a few patrons. It was a scene right out of an old "Cheers" episode, but not really.

As Scott and I continue to chat, I learn that he is originally from Memphis and moved here 21 years ago. He tells me, "Some guys move here in order to be more accepted. But because they don't 'stand out' anymore, they have a hard time adjusting to not being 'looked at' like they used to be."

"San Francisco is a great place to live", he says. "It's more accepting here -- San Francisco in general, not just Castro".

He has fun living in this area as it often provides for great reality-based theater. He goes on to say, "Women often bring their straight boyfriends in to test them out. They want to know if waiters think he is cute, and does he behave properly?

"We're all refugees here," he says and then states matter-of-factly, "Nobody who lives in this city is from here. This is normal and okay. This is a multicultural, multisexual place. You can't be a racist or bigot here. It just won't work."

Next time you are in San Francisco, be sure to visit the Castro and enjoy all it has to offer: shopping, dining, entertainment or just hanging out. You won't be disappointed.

Where else will you see restaurant employees jokingly walk around with a stack of plastic cups extended from their groins or patrons giving porno tapes instead of tips?

Regardless of who you are this is one fun neighbourhood.

For more information:
sfgate.com
castroonline.com