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 The snowcapped Orsono volcano in Chile's Lake District is just one of the many exciting cultural and ecological sights across the country. (Sun Media/Robin Robinson) |
SAN FELIPE, Chile -- Of all the places he visited, Charles Darwin is perhaps most closely associated with the Galapagos Islands.
But, as a new exhibit at the Royal Ontario Museum shows, his five-year scientific expedition aboard the H.M.S. Beagle took him to many lands.
In 1834 Darwin arrived in Chile and stopped at Valparaiso (now a UNESCO World Heritage City) then ventured east to the hills of San Felipe, where locals still keep the memory of his visit alive.
At the Termas Jahuel Hotel & Spa, built in 1912 and beautifully renovated in 2005, there's a Casona Darwin -- a five-suite house with a thermal pool; a Salon Darwin, where guests can relax with a newspaper and a cup of tea; and a plaque also commemorates the famous biologist's visit to the area.
"Back then, there was no hotel, it was all wild," says guide Jaime Guzman, through a translator.
"Darwin was invited to this area by some aristocrats. He intended to spend a day here, but he liked it so much he stayed for a week."
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Driving on the long winding road that leads to this sprawling 400-hectare property, you get the impression the landscape hasn't changed all that much -- rolling hills covered with cacti and low-lying trees and shrubs extend as far as the eye can see.
Located 98 km from the capital Santiago, the resort is a picture of tranquillity. From the breathtaking views of the Aconcagua Valley and lavender-scented air, to the therapeutic thermal waters and excellent food, it's hard to imagine a more relaxing getaway.
Next morning, after a delicious breakfast which includes some pleasantly surprising buffet items -- juicy ripe cherries (Chilean of course) and fresh raspberry juice, I set out on a hike with Jaime, a Spanish-speaking guide, and Christian who acts as translator.
A leisurely 1.5-hour walk will lead to our destination -- the meseta, a plateau behind the resort. Along the way we pass two underground fountains, hear the sound of birds chirping and bees buzzing, and marvel at the multi-hued distant mountains.
Jaime explains the medicinal value of some of the plants and at one point stops in front of a particularly large native tree said to be 1,000 years old, a species Darwin may have gazed upon. From here we can see down into a valley and the resort's 50-hectare olive grove -- no doubt the source of the tasty olive pate served in the restaurant with freshly baked bread before every meal.
It's sunny and warm during our hike, but the weather, I'm told, can vary from a high of 38 C in summer (January-February) to a low of -5 C in winter. One thing you likely won't see is rain, which occurs only about four times a year.
Dry scrub land is typical, though for one month a year, usually November, everything turns green, while in September and October the ground is carpeted with wild flowers.
By the time we arrive at the meseta, 1,500 metres above sea level, we've passed only five others -- all on horseback. Walking on part of a path that cuts across the country from west to east are two groupings of large boulders. Locals say one resembles a train and the other a tortoise.
Christian, who has a large turtle tattooed on his back and another on his leg, naturally climbs to the top of the one that looks like his favourite reptile.
Somewhere up here, Darwin saw a condor for the first time, says Jaime.
No vultures are in sight today, but we have seen several goats, rabbits and donkeys. And yesterday on the drive in, several alpacas, which also roam the property, made a surprise appearance.
With a little more time I might have been tempted to climb a distant mountain, where Jaime discovered several well-preserved petroglyphs. Instead we round a path back down the hill overlooking the Aconcagua Valley with its vineyards and peach orchards.
"Vista Hermosa" (beautiful view) reads a sign below a white flag from where we can see the coastal mountains on the right and the Andes on the left.
The path continues past a "Quiet Forest" of old eucalyptus trees and "whisper plants," and concludes when we arrive at one of the resort's three main thermal pools. It seems now would be a good time to soak in one!
BOTTOM LINE
WRAPPED IN OLIVES!
"Olives have anti-oxidants and minerals and vitamins and we think it is good to apply to skin, to hydrate and tone the skin," says Consuelo Santana who recently introduced olive-based treatments at the hotel spa. For the 50-minute anti-aging session, olives ground into a paste are mixed with mud, warmed and then applied to the entire body after which you are wrapped in plastic. After rinsing off in the shower, you're massaged with slightly heated olive oil which leaves your skin smooth as silk.
IF YOU GO
The 60-room Termas Jahuel Hotel & Spa offers bicycles, horseback riding, guided hikes, fitness classes, and star gazing excursions at night. A double room starts at $315 US including all meals. For more check jahuel.cl.
DARWIN ON SHOW
In Toronto, "Darwin: The Evolution Revolution" runs until Aug. 4 at the Royal Ontario Museum (ROM). This is reportedly the most complete exhibit ever assembled on Darwin and evolution, featuring personal artifacts and live animals.