GRAZ, Austria -- "Excuse me," I ask the ticket collector "but what is the difference between first and second class on this train?"

I had been sitting in economy for the last half-hour on the journey between Vienna and Graz until I realized my mistake and moved up to the first class car, in accordance with my ticket. Being unfamiliar with the various classes of service on Austrian trains, I wonder if I've missed anything -- breakfast or champagne perhaps?

The railway employee, a towering figure, pauses to reflect on my question for a moment.

"The difference," he replies, "is that in first class you get the governor."

Then he points to the metal name badge on his uniform, which reads "Schwarzenneger."

"Are you related to Arnie?" I gasp, sounding like a star-struck fan of Terminator movies.

I knew that Arnold Schwarzenegger, governor of California, former Hollywood actor and body builder came from a village near Graz, but hadn't actually expected to meet any of his relatives.

"His father is my cousin's nephew," he announces in German, which someone nearby translates for me. I notice the other passengers, who had been working on their laptop computers or reading the morning newspaper, have paused to listen in on our conversation.

Then, as if to prove his familial ties, Mr. Schwarzenegger the railway employee, removes his jacket and, to everyone's astonishment, flexes an arm exposing an enormous bulging muscle!

"Wow, that's better than Arnie!" I proclaim.

The passengers enjoy a hearty laugh, while the ticket collector blushes. It would not be my only encounter on this trip with someone who knows the former action hero personally.

I had always wanted to visit Austria's second largest city, ever since learning its Old Town had been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. It's said to be Central Europe's best preserved city centre.

After checking into the conveniently located Weitzer Hotel on the banks of the River Mur, I find most of the city's attractions are within easy walking distance. They include the Franciscan Quarter, the Cathedral, Opera House, Glockenspiel, several museums, and the Schlossberg, or castle hill, which can be reached by elevator, funicular or stairway.

One place -- the Schloss Eggenberg, a 17th century palace -- I even return to twice, once in the evening for a classical music concert and then the next day to tour the art collection and gardens.

Although Graz is a historic city, it's also crammed with modern architecture. A free tourist brochure identifies 30 sites,including the Kunsthaus, a contemporary art gallery that locals have dubbed the "friendly alien," for its spaceship-like appearance, and the Island in the Mur, an architectural project built in 2003 -- the year Graz was named Europe's Cultural Capital.

One place I was determined not to miss was the Landeszeughaus, the largest historical armoury in the world. Admittedly, I was less interested in the technical workings of 16th century wheel-lock pistols, than in seeing so many pieces of centuries-old armour all in one place.

More than 32,000 pieces of armour, helmets and weapons are on display on four floors, all in their original setting. From here troops were issued with weapons right up until the mid-18th century. The current stock is so large that it could equip around 5,000 men.

In the Cannon Hall, I read about Styria's military history, while elsewhere a guide points out highlights of the collection including a complete suit of horse-armour -- one of only four of its kind in the world.

On the fourth floor my guide has a chat in German with one of the volunteer security guards.

"This is Karl Diemer," he tells me. "He trained Arnold Schwarzenegger during his 15-month compulsory military service in the 1960s. He's been in contact with him before he was famous."

Diemer, who taught Arnold how to drive a tank, didn't mention anything about his recruit skipping out to enter body-building competitions. But he was amused by Arnie's efforts to have his old tank brought to California.

The chance of an average citizen ever meeting the "Governator" in person may be slim, but in Graz, I learn, it's possible to encounter some of his old friends and relatives -- albeit in some unlikely places.

MORE INFORMATION

For tourist info, check austria.info or graztourismus.at. Air Transat has flights from Toronto to Vienna every Thursday from May 10 to Oct. 4. See transatholidays.com. Trains run frequently to Graz from other Austrian cities.