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Destination: Philadelphia

Philly favourites

Top new -- and old -- things to do in City of Brotherly Love

By JESSE MICHAELS, QMI Agency
An exterior view of the National Museum of American Jewish History. (Photo © Jeff Goldberg/Esto for Ennead Architects, courtesy of National Museum of American Jewish History)

An exterior view of the National Museum of American Jewish History. (Photo © Jeff Goldberg/Esto for Ennead Architects, courtesy of National Museum of American Jewish History)

Philadelphia, home of Benjamin Franklin, William Penn and countless other important American figures, has great bones as a city of history and historical sites. Contained within many of those sites are places of religious and spiritual significance that allow visitors a chance to understand how the United States earned its reputation as a "melting pot."

Perhaps one of the best places to start is the recently opened National Museum of American Jewish History. The $150 million, 9,290-sq.-metre museum is located in Independence Mall, alongside other major institutions such as the Liberty Bell and the National Constitution Center.

The museum seeks to tell the story of Jewish life in America through four floors of exhibits, including the Only in America Gallery/Hall of Fame on the first floor, where you can learn about notable Jewish figures such as Steven Spielberg, Albert Einstein, Sandy Koufax and Barbra Streisand. The gallery is part film and part display of objects important to these people -- Spielberg's first camera and the dress Streisand wore in Yentl, for example.

On the upper floors, visitors can trace the history and progress of American Jews, from the first settlers in 1654 to the present through visual displays, video, audio and interactive presentations. As you wind your way down from the fourth floor, you will learn how and why Jews from other countries emigrated to the United States and the political, social and economic challenges they faced and would eventually overcome.

While in Philadelphia's historic area, a guided walking tour of other famous sites is a great way to gain an understanding of revolutionary America and the city's central role in it. Don't miss the statue of William Penn (founder of what would later become Pennsylvania) high atop city hall, Betsy Ross House (did she really sew the first flag?), Elfreth's Alley (America's oldest residential street) and Mother Bethel A.M.E. Church and Museum -- one of the country's first African-American churches.

To see some of the countryside, plan to visit St. Katharine Drexel National Shrine in Bensalem -- about an hour outside Philadelphia in bucolic Buck's County.

The shrine is run by the Sisters of the Blessed Sacrament, who live on the sprawling grounds. The order is dedicated to the memory of Katharine Drexel, a nun who helped the poor and oppressed. Her family was extremely wealthy and prominent in Philadelphia (Drexel University was founded by her uncle) but Katharine would lead a simple life and use her money to aid the downtrodden. Known to have performed two miracles, she was canonized by Pope John Paul II in October of 2000.

There is also a small museum on the property that tells her story through her furniture and possessions, as well as lectures and seminars.

The dead play an important a role in Philadelphia, particularly at Laurel Hill Cemetery about a 15-minute drive from the Center City district. Overlooking the Schuylkill River, the vast burial ground is the final resting spot of some of Philadelphia's most prominent citizens from the mid-19th century on. It's ideal for a walking tour, especially near Halloween when there are themed tours.

Laurel Hill has everything from simple gravestones to elaborate crypts, some as big as a small house! Civil war generals from both sides are buried there, as is Harry Kalas, the well-known announcer for the Philadelphia Phillies. His gravestone is very popular and includes seats from Veterans Stadium, where he called the first game in 1971 and the last in 2003.

Cheese steaks and more

Now that you've fed your soul with sacred, spiritual and historical sites, you'll also need to replenish your inner "foodie" and Philadelphia offers lots of noshing. You can't visit the city without trying a cheese steak, either from one of the many street vendors or from two competing south-Philly legends -- Pat's and Geno's. Located across the street from each other, these institutions are packed with locals and tourists at all hours of the day.

Philadelphia is also known for its hoagie -- a sort of submarine sandwiches on steroids. Gooey Looie's, also in south Philadelphia makes delicious hoagies that are as long as your arm and twice as thick! Make sure to come hungry or consider sharing these ample sandwiches.

Many Philadelphia restaurants are embracing the farm-to-table movement and using primarily locally grown ingredients. Tweed Restaurant in Center City is among this new crop, with owner Edward Bianchini and chef David Cunningham serving up delectable cheese-steak croquettes, braised lamb shank and a tasty local cheese plate.

If steak and potatoes are more your thing, you can't go wrong at Butcher & Singer steakhouse in Center City from famed Philadelphia restaurateur Stephen Starr. Delectable grilled meats and impeccable service are the norm in this dramatic room that once housed a stock exchange.

Finally, for a room with a view, none could be better than Nineteen Restaurant in the Hyatt at Bellevue on Broad St. It features panoramic floor-to-ceiling views of the Philadelphia skyline, a seafood raw bar and a selection of cooked seafood and other items. If you're there at night, be sure to take your cocktail out to one of the terraces and toast the incredible view.

Go directly to jail

When Philadelphia's 19th-century citizens committed crimes, many were sent to Eastern State Penitentiary, which opened in 1829 and soon became the biggest and most expensive building in the United States. With its high walls and fortifications, the prison looks more like a castle -- at least from the outside.

Its founders believed they could change inmates' behaviour through solitary confinement. Each of the cells had a contained exercise area so inmates could not communicate among themselves or with the prison staff.

Unfortunately, the solitary system lead to mental illness among many inmates and was officially abandoned in 1913. Eastern State was turned into a conventional prison, which would later house notorious criminals such as Al Capone and Willie Sutton.

Closed in 1971, Eastern State Penitentiary offers self-guided audio tours and has been the site of numerous movie shoots, including 12 Monkeys and Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen. A synagogue once used by Jewish inmates and volunteers has recently been rebuilt.

jesse.michaels@canoe.ca

IF YOU GO TO PHILADELPHIA

Head to VisitPhilly.com for more tourist information.

WHERE TO STAY

You'll need a place to rest your head after seeing the sites and dining on Philly's best eats. Hotel Palomar Philadelphia is centrally located near Rittenhouse Square and is the city's first (and only) LEED Gold Certified hotel. Housed in the renovated Art Deco Architects Building, the boutique hotel has well-appointed guestrooms, friendly staff and the popular Square 1682 restaurant-bar. See hotelpalomar-philadelphia.com for info on rates and packages.

ATTRACTIONS

-- National Museum of American Jewish History, nmajh.org.

-- St. Katharine Drexel National Shrine, katharinedrexel.org.

-- Laurel Hill Cemetery, thelaurelhillcemetery.org

-- Pat's King of Steaks, patskingofsteaks.com.

-- Geno's Steaks, genosteaks.com.

-- Gooey Looie's, 215-334-7668.

-- Tweed Restaurant, tweedrestaurant.com.

-- Butcher & Singer Steaks and Chops, butcherandsinger.com.

-- Nineteen Restaurant at the Hyatt, philadelphia.bellevue.hyatt.com.

-- Eastern State Penitentiary, easternstate.org.

This story was posted on Sun, January 23, 2011



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