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 Traditional junk sails in Hong Kong Harbour. -- Photo courtesy of Hong Kong Tourist Board |
Entertainer Peter Ustinov once remarked that simply crossing the street in this former British colony is an adventure in itself. Another visitor countered no one could explain Hong Kong to anyone -- one has to experience it personally.
As I sat in the famed Foreign Correspondents Club, mentioned in many novels and containing more fascinating newspaper memorabilia than I had ever seen before, I reflected on just how overwhelming this fabled collection of coastal land and 260 islands is.
It's a legendary trading port with low or non-existent taxes, and goods from the world pass through here.
Expensive stores sell expensive items at expensive prices, and market stalls sell expensive items at inexpensive prices.
In Central Hong Kong, the tallest buildings I've ever seen stand cheek-by-jowl in various stunning architectural designs, many bearing the names of the world's greatest companies.
Yet just 20 minutes away, by cab through busy streets and brightly lit underground tunnels, you are on the verge of lush green mountainous parkland.
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In this 424-sq.-mile city-state of almost seven million, fully 43% of the land is protected. Suddenly, the international business world and the bustling market places have turned into tranquility.
EAST MEETS WEST
Many places in the Far East claim theirs is where the East meets the West, but in Hong Kong that claim is really true.
The soaring buildings give the impression of a western metropolis, while the vast and varied marketplaces remind you of Chinatowns back home.
Add to the mix, reminders of the long decades of British rule: Admiralty Centre, Causeway Bay, Lower Albert Road -- even Jackson Street. English street names are everywhere.
Colourful British-style double-decker buses dart in and out of traffic, while below them some of the fastest and cleanest underground trains sweep along from ultra-modern station to station.
Nothing ever seems to stop in this kaleidoscope of a city -- and posters promoting Italian operas and Russian ballets next to huge placards for Jackie Chan's latest action movie only add to the verve.
In the lobby lounge at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, a stunning Eurasian singer warbled Cole Porter love songs, while hostesses sold cigars, lighting them with small torches. It was a relaxing and fascinating evening, with business deals being made everywhere.
One of the world's greatest racehorse venues is the Happy Valley Racecourse, where the first race was held in 1846.
The Star Ferry, which originated more than one century ago, takes you on a scenic boat ride across Hong Kong Harbour, one of the most photographed in the world.
British colonial-style buildings sit adjacent to ornate Chinese architecture. Museums and temples are everywhere. No Hollywood producer could dream up a movie set that captures this visually stunning mix.
Amidst all this, I did every visitors' thing: In a small, cramped store in an arcade in Kowloon I had two fine suits tailored. One grey, one black. Measured one day, first fitting the next, and then picked up on the third day. They can have a made-to-measure shirt for you in six hours.
My last unforgettable moments were spent on a whirling 60-minute helicopter ride, which provided a dazzling look at the 18 different districts of Hong Kong: Long, clean sandy beaches, newly built towns with soaring apartment blocks and the "Big Buddha" sitting serenely atop Ngong Ping plateau
The best way to the airport is to take the super-fast, super-sleek Airport Express train that whisks you there in just 20 minutes. You check your luggage in at a downtown station, and never see it again until you hit Vancouver.
Ustinov was right, I thought as the train sped me from this exotic land. Of all the places I've visited, Hong Kong is the only one I really regretted having to leave.