The Val Jalbert Historic Village's waterfall once powered a pulp mill. -- Guy demarino, Sun photos

In this beautiful country of ours, one jewel deserving to be better admired is the Saguenay-Lac Saint Jean area of the lower St. Lawrence river.

That's where the river widens into a gulf of the same name, before joining the Atlantic Ocean, or else squeezes into the majestic, 100-kilometre-long Saguenay fjord.

All just less than 500 km north of Montreal! You can fly directly to Bagotville, in the heart of the Saguenay fjord, but I wouldn't do it that way. Go to Quebec City, enjoy all that town has to offer, then go north along the mighty St. Lawrence by vehicle or by boat.

It's an easy way to explore this river where so much Canadian history was made - indeed, where Canada began. The Saguenay-Lac Saint Jean area has plenty of history, along with many impressive natural sights, sport or adventure activities, and man-made offerings which include Paris Folies, a musical-variety revue in Chicoutimi as good as you'd see in France.

But, nature first: the whales. They're a top reason to come this way - especially the all-white Beluga whales, plentiful in the federal-provincial Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park.

But there are 12 other species there, including Minke, Fin, Blue and other whales that make this area their home or make regular visits there.

I saw some Belugas and other whales from the deck of the speedy Famille Dufour II catamaran that took me from Quebec City to Tadoussac, a small town at the beginning of the Saguenay fjord. You can do that return trip, with two stops along the way, in one day for $149, less for seniors and kids. Breakfast and a snack are included.

But you'd be shortchanging yourself. The Dufour vessel will show some marine life and a bit of the Saguenay fjord, but you should get off and see more.

Stay at the classic Hotel Tadoussac, visit the Marine Mammals interpretation centre next door, take a whale-watching ride on a Zodiac for $45 and later go all the way up the Saguenay to Chicoutimi, Jonquiere and Lac Saint Jean.

Home life at the 17th century Nouvelle France site.

Some people do it by kayak! Kayaking in these tranquil waters is quite popular and quite cheap: about $30 per person for a half-day excursion. But there's so much more in Saguenay-Lac Saint Jean that in a few days there last month, I barely sampled some of it.

One of my favourites was the Zoo St. Felicien, which is a reverse zoo; people go around in a wire-netted trolley and the wild animals roam around free! But no giraffes in this 375-hectare park: all 77 species of animals are north American.

History? It's at the New France site in St. Felix d'Otis, setting for the 1989 Black Robe film and showing, via ancient buildings and costumed guides, how Europeans and Indians lived in 17th century Quebec. Also worth watching is Fabulous History of a Kingdom, a colourful three-hour pageant in Ville de la Baie.

Do brush up on your high-school French before you go, but you'll find enough English speakers when needed. For pre-trip info call the Association Touristique du Saguenay-Lac Saint Jean in Chicoutimi, toll-free: 1-800-463-9651, or http://www.atrsaglac.d4m.com