Quebec City has old world charm and plenty to discover - even in winter. (Shutterstock)

QUEBEC CITY -- Quebec's capital -- aka the birthplace of North America -- has always been a natural draw for tourists with its rich 400-year-history, old world European charm and iconic Chateau Frontenac hotel looming large over the skyline. But only a five-minute drive away is the rejuvenated and fast-evolving Saint-Roch neighbourhood, anchored by the city's biggest church, a neo-Gothic wonder built between 1914-1923.

The century-old quarter has successfully been reclaimed from a misguided urban experiment of the '70s, when merchants and the city decided to put a kilometre-long roof over the main drag, Saint-Joseph Street, and ban cars to attract shoppers who were heading to suburban malls. Instead, they got drug dealers and prostitutes, which led to faltering businesses.

But in the '80s, a new mayor decided to remove the roof and reverse the car ban. Saint-Roch started to bounce back, first with an award-winning garden, then with unique bars, restaurants and stores.

Three-year-old boutique-style Hotel PUR, previously a Holiday Inn, is right in the centre of the action -- directly oppposite the church and walking distance to everything Saint-Roch has to offer. During my December visit, the hotel was projecting a nightly sound/light show called Fantasmagorie -- produced with renowned theatre director Robert Le Page's company, Ex Machina -- on the church exterior.

But, even without the show, if you book one of PUR's 224 rooms ask for a church view to take advantage of the floor to ceiling windows and the serene setting.

Once inside the modern minimalist hotel, sophisticated travellers will find many things to their liking. Rooms have soaker tubs -- so deep allow a good half-hour to fill it, especially with weak water pressure -- Aveda products, comfy 300-thread-count bed linens and down comforters, free Wi-Fi, and LCD flat-screen TVs.

Two unique public spaces are the city's largest indoor swimming pool and Table, the breakfast-only restaurant that offers up hearty morning meals, beautiful natural light and incredible views of the church square. Renovations are underway for night-time dining by April so room service is the only option for dinner.

Once you're all settled and sated, head out onto Saint-Joseph for a day-long stroll.

If you're in the mood for toys, there's the awesome Benjo (apparently Celine Dion is a fan) with its minature V.I.P. entrance for kids; Canadian designer clothing at Novo; shoes at Tohu Bohu; clothes, housewares and fun gifts at Urban Outfitters; and Balthazar/EQ3 for housewares.

For a leisurely experience, there's Bloomi, a wonderful organic-leaning beauty and fragrance product store and spa, where I had one of the most heavenly massages of my life. My therapist was French-born Florence, a 25-year veteran who I nicknamed Florence Nightingale, for her medicinal touch.

Other inviting afternoon stops are the Camellia Sinensis teahouse -- owner Jasmin Desharnais offers up delicious and aromatic tea tastings from the more than 200 varieties sold in his store -- and Versa, where I tried the house speciality -- General Tao Chicken made with Jack Daniel's -- for lunch.

For nightime excursions, look no further than the contemporary neighbourhood bistro Le Clocher Penche for dinner. Chef-co-owner Mathieu Brisson prepares unfussy, beautifully cooked fresh regional food in this intimate room with lots of windows to the street, white table cloths and a bar at the front. Our friendly waiter Patrick tells us they serve an excellent weekend brunch as well. Afterward, if you still have energy, there's Le Cercle, a restaurant/live music venue that in recent months has hosted the likes of Fran Healy (Travis), and The Besnard Lakes.

If you want to go slightly further afield, you can also climb one of the many staircases that link the city's lower town to the upper town. It's about a 15-minute walk straight up from Saint-Roch to Saint-Jean, another street and neighbourhood bustling with restaurants, bars and shops.

AN OLD FAVOURITE

You can't come visit Quebec City and not check out the charming old town a mere five minute cab ride or half-hour walk away from hip Saint-Roch.

In one morning, with the help of a guide and her car, I managed to sample the hot chocolate at La Fudgerie, snap pictures along the pretty cobblestone streets, zip into Chateau Frontenac for a quick look around (note to self: go back to the bar and quaf a martini beside the fire), and drive by The Plains Of Abraham, where cannons from the famous battle still line the perimeter.

I returned for dinner at Panache -- the gorgeous restaurant inside Auberge Saint-Antoine Hotel -- which is all stone walls, giant exposed wood beams, red velvet chairs, tan velvet banquettes, glass fireplace and windows facing the St. Lawrence River. The food -- scallops in lobster sauce followed by rolled Guinea hen -- lives up to the spectacular setting. Panache was voted the best new restaurant in Canada in 2007 and remains one of Quebec's Top 3. For an after-dinner drink, the cozy corners and two fireplaces of the hotel's bar/lounge seem tailor-made for the perfect nightcap.

MORE INFORMATION

For reservations at Hotel PUR, see hotelpur.com. For travel information, visit Tourism Quebec City at quebecregion.com or Tourism Quebec at bonjourquebec.om.

For more on Saint-Roch Church, 590 Saint-Joseph E., contact patrimoine-religieux.com. Novo, 798 Saint-Joseph East. Tohu Bohu, 775 Saint-Joseph East, tohubohu.ca. Benjo, 550 Charest East. Bloomi, 507 Saint-Joseph East. Camellia Sinensis, 624 Saint-Joseph East, camellia-sinensis.com. Table Restaurant at Hotel PUR, 395 de la Couronne, (north entrance). Versa Resaurant, 432 du Parvis, versarestaurant.com. Le Clocher Penche Restaurant, 203 Saint-Joseph East, clocherpenche.ca. Brulerie St-Roch coffee shop, 375, Saint-Joseph East. Le Cercle, 228 Saint-Joseph East (restaurant/live music venue), le-cercle.ca.