Destination: GUADELOUPE and GRENADA

Sweet ports of call

Laid-back charm of 'spice' and 'butterfly' island will entice your senses

By CHANTEL GUERTIN -- Special to The Sun

Breathtaking flora of Guadeloupe. -- Photos by Chantel Guertin

THE CARIBBEAN -- When the cruise on which I'd booked a mid-winter excursion changed its itinerary at the last minute, I was completely disappointed. No longer would we be visiting the islands of Martinique and Dominica; instead we'd be stopping at two uncommon ports of call -- Guadeloupe and Grenada.

 I never expected the unique charm that awaited me on these unexploited islands, nor for the pair to become the highlight of my Caribbean vacation.

 Known to natives as the "butterfly island," the beauty that encompasses Guadeloupe is visible from afar. The more spectacular view is from the air; so if you don't arrive by plane, consider taking a helicopter tour of the island to discover where the island gets its moniker.

  The largest of the French Antilles, Guadeloupe is an archipelago of nine inhabited islands, but the most common and easily accessible are the two largest -- Basse Terre to the west and Grand Terre to the east -- that form the butterfly's wings. Even the colourful vibrancy of the flora and fauna indulge the horticultural image perfectly.

 I arrived on the island at Pointe a Pitre, Grand Terre, where dozens of pristine beaches provide spectacular views and secluded hideaways, perfect for those who enjoy sunbathing nude. Of course, bathing suits are welcome, particularly if you purchase one from the "beach models" -- vendors who will do a little striptease on the sand to entice you to purchase their wares.

 Seeing the mountains of Basse Terre in the distance, I was glad I signed up for an excursion to Parc National, deep in the rainforests.

  A World Biosphere Reserve, the park covers more than 50% of the island and protects the heavily forested mountain range from being farmed. Most people spend at least a day or two exploring the park, and camping is permitted.

  As we drove into the southern tip of the park, La Soufriere rises out of the mountain range. With its fumaroles, cauldrons and sulphur fields, La Soufriere is the most accessible volcano on the island.

 We start our trek at Grand Etang, a large pond that is home to cirique crabe, kingfisher, green heron and a variety of trees, including bamboo and yellow mangrove. About three km past Grand Etang we start up the Chutes du Carbet waterfalls walk, where more than 200 varieties of birds -- including the rare Guadeloupe woodpecker -- flit through the mahogany and gommier trees while raton laveur (raccoon, the island's national animal), mongoose and agouti roam the mossy floor below.

 Overnight, the vista transforms as we arrive by ship at the southern-most tip of the Windward Islands and our next port of call, Grenada. The sweet aroma of the "spice island" turns the land into an outdoor bakery, and at the capital city of St. Georges, even the beaches look like white sugar and the trees, like cinnamon sticks.

 The spice trees arrived from Indonesia in the late '60s, and became the island's main source of agriculture. I meander the market where sellers display an array of spices in their natural form, or handmade into delicacies like vanilla sugar, mango and papaya jam and cinnamon tea.

 The Grand Etang National Park and Forest Reserve is central to the island and a mere eight km drive from St. Georges. In the central mountain range, Grand Etang is a crater lake surrounded by lush tropical forest where Mona monkeys hang onto the branches of bois canot, Caribbean pine and blue mahoe trees, often camouflaging themselves among the epiphytes and mosses.

 Armadillos crawl through the thick, muddy undergrowth. Guided up the somewhat confusing trails of the gentle climbing mountain, which peaks at 2,000 feet, clearings display the elfin woodland -- where trees have been stunted by wind.

As we arrive back in St. Georges, I make my way down around the harbour to the island's landmark and only built-up structure -- the imposing Fort George. Atop a steep hill, the fort, which was built in 1705, is now home to the Royal Grenada Police Force, which is open to the public. It is easy to spend hours rummaging about the 300-year-old cannons that are in remarkably untainted condition, and exploring the passageways and hidden tunnels. Later in the afternoon, I have just enough time to lie on the spectacular, three-km long Grand Anse beach for a few hours. When the sun goes down, the beach becomes scattered with cows, taking their own moonlit stroll, thirsty for a sip from the sea.

 GETTING THERE:

 GUADELOUPE -- WIA, Air Canada and American Airlines all fly from Toronto to Antigua, with a half-hour LIAT connecting flight to Guadeloupe. Carnival Cruises' European Delight tour stops at Pointe a Pitre. For detailed trail guides of Parc National, contact Parc National de la Guadeloupe, Habitation Beausoleil, Monteran, Boite Postal 13, F97120, St. Claude, Guadeloupe, FWI, call 590-80-86-00. Avis, Budget and Hertz all rent cars at the airport or port. On Grand Terre, Agence Georges Marie-Gabrielle (call 590-820-538) and KPC Petreluzzi (call 590-903-777) have English-speaking guides.

 On Basse Terre, Guadeloupe Decouverte (590-252-087) offers trekking and guided trips in 4X4 Jeeps, kayaks and canoes and Emeraude Guadeloupe (590-819-828 or http://emeraudeguadeloupe.ifrance.com/ has guided treks and mountain bike tours. The site is in French only.

 GRENADA -- Celebrity, Sun, Crown and Sunquest Cruises all stop in Grenada. BWIA has direct flights from Toronto. For free maps of more than a dozen attractions and sites, send an e-mail with your mailing address to maps@travelgrenada.com. For a list of tour companies divided by excursion specialty -- trekking, whale watching, sailing, history, rum distilleries or spice plantations, go to www.grenadaexplorer.com or www.travelgrenada.com.

 For lodging on both islands, go to www.concierge.com

(First featured: October 28, 2001)