Holding a parrot at Macaw Mountain bird sanctuary in Copan Ruinas, Honduras. (STEPHEN RIPLEY/Sun Media)

A wet and wild getaway A Mayan playground Mayan treasures

COPAN RUINAS, Honduras -- He may take a lot of heat for his kooky beliefs, but when it comes to accurately depicting Mayan culture, one Hollywood star certainly hit the nail on the head.

I'm not referring to Mel Gibson's pre-Columbian snuff film, Apocalypto, but rather to John Travolta's disco-era classic, Saturday Night Fever. Standing here amid the sprawling ruins of Copan in western Honduras, I can see the inspiration for Travolta's iconic pose -- a stone carving known as the Dancing Jaguar.

Reared up on its hind legs, with one hand on its hip and the other pointing straight out, the grinning stone feline is quite obviously dancing. It's hard to believe such a cartoonish image was created by the same artisans who sculpted the fearsome death's heads at the other end of the Jaguar Plaza, where Mayan priests would sometimes perform human sacrifices.

Copan was once one of the largest cities in the Mayan world, with more than 30,000 inhabitants at the height of the civilization around AD 800. Today, only 5,000 people live in the neighbouring town of Copan Ruinas, with another 20,000 scattered throughout the Copan River valley.

Nobody knows exactly why Mayan society collapsed -- overpopulation and deforestation are among the theories for Copan's demise -- but their civilization certainly left an indelible mark. Artistically, the ruins of Copan are a marvel, with towering stonework and intricate carvings describing a society far different than the bloodthirsty savages depicted in Gibson's Apocalypto.

Copan is known for its collection of totem-like stelae -- carved stone monoliths -- considered to be the largest and most beautiful in the Mayan world. These depict some of the city's 17 different rulers in battle or ceremonial garb, surrounded by snakes, birds and mythological beasts.

Although the area first gained world prominence with the rediscovery of the ruins in the 19th century, the Copan valley has a lot more to offer than history. Many who come just to see the ancient city leave disappointed, wishing they had given themselves more time to enjoy the charming town and its lush surroundings.

Determined not to make the same mistake, I get up early for a visit to the San Isabel coffee plantation, or finca. It's harvest time at the small farm, which exports 500,000 pounds of coffee each year.

Hiking through the lush hillside, we are encouraged to pick ripe coffee cherries. The fruit which surrounds the hard bean inside is surprisingly sweet, making a good pre-breakfast snack. We're warned not to eat too many, though, since the juice is a potent laxative.

Dancing Jaguar in the Copan ruins in Honduras. (STEPHEN RIPLEY/Sun Media)

After a hearty breakfast of burritos and sausage at the plantation, we head back up the highway to the Macaw Mountain bird sanctuary. At the main entrance, we are greeted by a talkative parakeet which says "hola," then proceeds to laugh uncontrollably.

The park is home to dozens of Central American birds which have been rescued from captivity. Foremost among them are the magnificent scarlet macaws, the sacred bird of the ancient Mayans, whose likeness graces many of the carvings of Copan.

My busy day continues in the afternoon with a zip-lining expedition courtesy of Honduras Canopy Tours. Located in the mountains overlooking the valley, the outfitter crisscrosses the forest with 14 different cables, some as long as 1 km and as high as 80 metres above the ground.

It sounds intense, but it's really a fairly safe and laid-back adventure. I'm secured in two places, then launched down the wire, controlling my speed with thick, rubber-lined gloves. In the distance, I can see the town and beyond that, the Mayan ruins.

The day ends with me relaxing poolside at the beautiful Hotel Marina Copan, just off the town's main square. I've had three days in Copan, but like so many others, I'm wishing it had been more.