Destination: HEIDILAND, Switzerland

Heidi ho

Hike The Heidi Trail through the glorious pastures and lakes of the Swiss Alps

By WALTER ROESSING Special to The Sun

Heidiland

HEIDILAND, Switzerland -- Heidi was in my thoughts as I hiked with friends across a dazzling green meadow in the Swiss Alps. I couldn't help but think of that little mountain girl because we were striding along The Heidi Trail in a popular region called Heidiland.

Moreover, whenever we stopped to catch our breath, our guide, Urs Kamber, would remind us that we were crossing the same pristine landscape where children's author Johanna Spyri got the inspiration for her world-famous novel, Heidi, 120 years ago.

You remember the fictional story, don't you?

Heidi -- played in the movies by Shirley Temple -- was sent from the city to the mountains to live with her white-bearded grandfather. The heavy fumes of the city had made her ill. Later, upon meeting Peter the goat-herder, this sweet little orphan girl joined him in exploring a wondrous world of alpine pastures and lakes, waterfalls, caves and beautiful mountain scenery -- just like we were doing.

According to the book: "The mountain air and the unique climate of the region helped to heal both her and her sick friend, Klara, in mind and body."

I must admit that Heidiland sounds more like a name for a Swiss theme park. But in reality, that appellation represents a picturesque region of 32 small towns and villages that are situated midway between the Swiss cities of Zurich and Chur.

There are three notable features about Heidiland.

First, there's The Heidi Trail. Our experience began when we boarded a four-passenger gondola car at the base of the Pardiel lift in the heart of Heidiland. Upon reaching the summit station at 1,633 metres, we started an easy, casual hike to Heidialp Schwarzbuel, which sits in a large clearing at 1,728 metres.

Greeting us at that site was Heini Klichmann, an elderly, white-bearded gentleman who looks remarkably similar to the description of Heidi's grandfather. Moments after our introduction, Klichmann returned to a huge kettle over an open fire, where he was cooking lunch -- a macaroni/potato dish mixed with onions, butter, cheese and salt. That tasty meal is available to any hiker for $5.25 Cdn; drink add-ons are mineral water, wine and beer.

Also located in that forest clearing on the Heidi Trail are picnic tables and benches, a small alpine hut, an old-fashioned water pump, a flagpole flying the Swiss flag and a huge Alphorn, which is played during lunch.

After dining, we hiked a little higher to a lookout point where the vistas are world class. Far below, coursing through a wide, verdant valley of vineyards, was the Rhine River. Tucked into a small village across the valley was the birthplace and home of Martina Hingis, the world's No. 1 female tennis player. Almost opposite that village, and just a 10-minute drive from the base gondola station, is the Principality of Liechtenstein and its capital city of Vaduz.

Moreover, the day was so clear that in the far distance we could even see the beginning of Lake Constance, which borders Switzerland, Austria and Germany. Many of these wondrous views are described in Spyri's book.

As we continued along the narrow footpath -- crossing little streams from time to time -- we passed a series of picture boards that retell the story of Heidi. Finally, after a fascinating hike that covered 5 km, we returned to the summit gondola station. In the winter, there is skiing throughout this terrain.

Second, Heidiland's diverse recreational and cultural events guarantee that you'll never have a dull moment in this region.

For example, many of Heidiland's villages occupy strategic points on the shore of the Lake of Walen (Walensee), which locals insist "is the cleanest lake in Switzerland." That body of water is noted for its sandy beaches, swimming, water skiing, sailing, boat harbors, fireplaces (barbecue pits), campgrounds and lakeside resorts and restaurants.

My favorite locale is sunny, romantic and historic Weesen (pop. 1,250), with beautiful promenades along the shoreline. The village offers sailing schools, boat rentals and sightseeing trips on the lake. Seven tour vessels, with capacities from 40 to 270 passengers, ply that calm body of water.

Heidiland's entire region is criss-crossed with flatland and mountain biking trails. I pedalled over a bridge crossing the Rhine to a wine festival in Sargans, noted for its dominating 13th-century castle. Inside that historic citadel, we discovered an intriguing folklore museum.

Among other Heidiland options: mountain streams above Vattis are ideal for trout fishing; Mels has a unique marketplace, stylish parish church and characteristic wooden houses from the 17th century; Flums has a 9th-century Romanesque church with a gothic altar; and Quinten (pop. 43), where lemons, figs and grapes grow, can only be reached by foot or boat.

Then there's the village of Amden (pop. 1,431), a gateway to hang gliding, rock climbing and 120 km of hiking trails.

At Bat Ragaz, the region's largest town (pop. 4,500 and 1,386 hotel beds), the choices are championship golf, tennis, horseback riding, horse-drawn coach rides and visits to a small private zoo and a beautiful 18th-century Protestant church.

Whatever the town or village, let's not overlook Heidiland's gourmet treats. The region is celebrated for its wine, alpine cheese, bread baked in wood-fired ovens, lavish breakfast buffets and a wide selection of other local culinary specialties.

Third, Heidiland is the marketing brainchild of Kamber.

He says, "We don't have a Matterhorn or world-class ski resorts like Zermatt or St. Moritz in our region. So I had to think of something different that would not only call attention to our region but appeal to tourists. My idea of Heidiland has been very successful."

GETTING THERE: The Heidiland region is easily accessible via frequent train service from Zurich Airport, which is served by Air Canada and Swissair.

MORE INFO: Switzerland Tourism, 926 The East Mall, Etobicoke, Ont., M9B 6K1; phone (416) 695-2090

(First featured: June 7, 1998)