Music at Krivoklat Castle south of Prague. -- Photos by Chris Blizzard, SUN

You'd expect a country whose patron saint is Good King Wenceslas to know a thing or two about getting into the true spirit of Christmas.

And the Czech Republic lives up to those high hopes. From big cities to small towns, they light up those dark December nights with festive lights and music.

Prague's lovely medieval Old Town Square is ablaze with light. A huge Christmas tree festooned with lights dominates the square, while all around, vendors set up small booths in a traditional Christmas market. You can buy everything from silk scarves to chocolate to wooden toys and handcrafts.

If you're looking for something a bit more up-market, the high class stores in the streets around the square offer everything from exquisite Bohemian crystal to stylish jewelry. And the Czech Republic is a bargain for shoppers.

Prague's magnificent cathedral is named for three saints -- Vitus, Wenceslas and Adalbert -- and dates from 1344, but wasn't completed until 600 years later, in 1929, ironically the 1,000 anniversary of Wenceslas's death.

Bohemia is especially magical at Christmas time. To the south of Prague, the ancient town of Cesky Krumlov, a designated UNESCO World heritage site, nestles in a wide meander of the Vltava River -- the same river that runs through the capital city.

Built on the wealth of the silver that was once mined nearby, the town was built to model Prague and is a charming mix of architectural gems, from Renaissance to Baroque to Rococo. Dominated by the 13th century castle and its Renaissance tower, the town now boasts art galleries, pubs, cafes, trendy bistros and up-scale restaurants.

While the Czech Republic celebrates Christmas mostly in a secular fashion, the whole of December becomes a special family time. Gift-giving starts on St. Nicholas Day, Dec. 5, there is carol singing in the square and, closer to Christmas, a live nativity scene. On Christmas Eve, the townsfolk go up to the castle to feed the bears that live in its moat.

Music is a Czech passion. It is everywhere -- be it carols, classical concerts, choral masses or traditional folk music.

During the Communist era, religion was frowned upon, but they couldn't smother the Czech Christmas spirit. Instead of Advent, the three Sundays before Christmas were referred to as bronze, silver and gold Sundays. That's when the the Christmas market vendors arrive. Artisans show off different handicrafts and there's mulled wine, chocolate, nuts and trdlovek -- a sugar, nut and poppy seed confection that is cooked on the market stalls and served hot.

And what would Christmas be without a brew? The Czech Republic is home to some of the world's finest beers, such as Pilsner Urquell. Cesky Krumlov has been been home to Eggenberg Brewery since 1560. You can tour their factory and dine in the restaurant, once the brewery's ice hall.

Another off-beat local attraction is the Rozmberk Castle. Perched high on rocks overlooking the Vltava valley and named for the most powerful family in the region since the 13th century, it's a mystical place. It even has its own ghost, the White Lady, whose portrait hangs in one of the rooms. Mistreated by her husband who begged her forgiveness, he cursed her on his deathbed. As a result, she roams the tower -- in a good way. She warns of impending doom.

The spectacular Bohemian countryside is good for outdoor sports. In winter, there's cross-country skiing. The best is Zelezna Ruda, southwest of Prague in the Sumava mountains. For downhill skiers, the biggest hills are 140 km northeast of Prague, where the two most important centres are Spindleruv Mlyn and Pec pod Snezkou.

In summer, there's canoeing and rafting, or visitors can rent bikes in Czesky Krumlov and take bike trails to another of the Czech Republic's 12 UNESCO Heritage sites, Holasovice, a village of beautifully preserved Baroque architecture. One part of southern Bohemia, that has so many similarities with Canada, it's known as, "Czech Canada."

The charming city of Czesky Krumlov.

And Wenceslas? It turns out he wasn't actually a king, but a Duke of Bohemia. No one's quite sure about the Christmas carol story, but he was known for his good works.

All the same, he was murdered by his brother and his mother strangled his grandmother. And you thought only your family was dysfunctional at Christmas time?

Bottom Line

GETTING THERE: Czech Airlines has three flights a week from Toronto to Prague. (For current fares, log on to csa.cz).

GETTING AROUND: Public transportation in Prague is excellent -- and cheap. You can buy a three-day pass that includes entrance into churches, museums as well as transit for 590 Czech Crowns. (about $28.50). There's also good train and bus service from Prague to smaller towns and cities.

Food vendor stirring hot almonds in the charming city of Czesky Krumlov.

MORE INFORMATION: For details of travel to the Czech Republic, see czechtourism.com.