Looking along the coast of Santorini from Oia, the most scenic town in all of Greece. (Robin Robinson/QMI Agency)

No island in the world makes as spectacular a first impression as Santorini in the Aegean sea, about 153 km by ferry from Athens.

As our boat drew near, a hush fell as we looked up at white houses perched so close to the cliff's edge one might worry they would tumble into the sea.

Once we had disembarked, I chose the oldest way up: By mule along a stone-laden path winding 274 metres to the top and Santorini's capital Fira.

My wife Barbara and I settled in a gleaming white hotel on the edge of Fira. But our real purpose was to go for an afternoon stroll in Oia (pronounced ee-ah), a village a few minutes by taxi on the island's northern edge. Oia is Santorini's most picturesque place, so picturesque that almost all of the photos you see promoting travel to Greece are taken at there.

It's tiny, with about 500 residents. The road leading to it has sea on one side and cliffs on the other. Most Greeks say if you're seeking peace, quiet and striking beauty, Oia is for you.

Our bus arrived at 1 p.m. so before our walk we had a light lunch at Loyerma, a cafe with the most memorable setting we'll probably ever experience -- perched on the edge of a very steep cliff (actually the rim of a caldera formed centuries ago by volcanic eruption) overlooking the endless sea. The menu was typical of Santorini -- local fish and a tasty zucchini pie, along with a glass of Santorini white, Boutari, made from grapes grown on vines planted close to the ground to protect them from the island's frequent wind.

A walk through Oia is not lengthy but impossible to forget: Ancient streets shine as do whitewashed houses, where children sit quietly on the front steps and play games. Once, this speck of a village had almost 80 churches but in 1959 many were destroyed by an earthquake.

Most of the day, a profound silence covers Oia's square. Even with its fame, the village doesn't seem crowded. Alleyways, often unnamed, lead to yet more alleyways, where blazing white walls dazzle the eye. Here and there are welcoming galleries, owned by artists drawn to the jewel in the Aegean. Make time to visit Oia's maritime museum to see examples of the village's fishing past and current life of its people.

For all the tranquillity, around four every afternoon you will hear a low murmur of people arriving in the village. These are visitors like ourselves staying in larger settlements near Fira and Mesaria, who arrive early to secure a spot in the square to watch Oia's legendary sunset. Those in the know say it's one of the most striking in the world. By 5 p.m., the square is packed with visitors, including many young Americans who chatter away.

But silence soon falls, then deepens. Suddenly, it's broken. Not by talk, but by the soft click of cameras as the red ball of the sun slips to the surface of the sea and suddenly sinks.

There are many things never to be forgotten about Santorini -- its mysterious past, its unique archaeology -- but in the end nothing surpasses the view of sun descending into the Aegean from Oia's main square.

For travel information, see travel-to-santorini.com.