The terraced walk along La Concha is the perfect place for a stroll. -- Photo by Kevin Hann

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The work day is winding down and spirits are on the rise.

A wicked Atlantic wind thrashes wildly at the footsteps of this 12th-century coastal paradise as locals flock to the narrow cobblestone streets of the Parte Vieja or Old Quarter.

It is time for tapas -- the quintessential bar food with a Basque style. The tradition may be akin to the Canadian pastime of wings and beer after work but the variety of savoury and succulent appetizers is endless.

On Calle Fermin Calbeton, just steps from the city's renowned La Brecha farmer's market in the shadow of trendy shops, is the typical tapas hangout Bar Sport. Just three wooden tables in a narrow, oak-panelled eatery. Soccer is on the lone TV. It's standing room only on this afternoon.

Most tapas bars open from noon to 4 p.m., then close for siesta until 6 p.m. Not this place, though. The seating area is dimly lit but spotlights shine on the bar where server Ernesto Garcia Elosua lays out platters of pinchos (Basques are more inclined to call it pinchos than tapas).

The spread is spectacular. Fresh toppings are fastened to thin slices of baguette with toothpicks, which bartenders use to calculate the food bill. Each item is about two Euros.

Elosua points to crowd pleasing toppings like plump, port-soaked mushrooms; grilled foie gras with olives; a fluffy Spanish potato omelette; skewers of grilled lamb; a "banderilla" of roasted red pepper and goat cheese topped with sardines; chunks of seafood and cheese; and spicy ham and sausage stuffed into mini croissants. Each time a tray is emptied, another creation appears.

Elosua works the sweating, glistening draught tap at a rapid pace while pouring glasses of Xacoli (pronounced cha-ko-lee), a wine from the Basque region favoured on tapas crawls. Tapas is only a precursor to the evening dinner.

It's easy to walk up an appetite by taking a stroll along La Concha (shell), a walled terrace ringing the quaint ocean cove. Apartments dot Mount Urgull range circling the harbour. The view from Ondarretta Beach below the terrace is breathtaking, the mix of architecture fascinating.

San Sebastian is located at the mouth of the Urumea River on Calle Oquendo, about one hour by vehicle from Pamplona or one hour by air from Madrid.

If luxury is your style, the five-star Hotel Maria Cristina will not disappoint. This opulent, belle epoque building, built 1912, is on Calle Oquendo, overlooking the river and just a stone's throw from the popular market area and city attractions. A favourite of film and music stars who visit annual festivals here, Maria Cristina is awash in Portuguese marble and onyx. The majestic property is surrounded by promenades and gardens.

San Sebastian (or Donostia to its Basque inhabitants) is a gastronomic powerhouse in Spain. Some of the exquisite gourmet items produced and used in this territory will soon be introduced to the Canadian market as part of a European Union marketing initiative. Wines, cheeses, meats, oils, vegetables and specialty products being shipped to Canada -- from Spain, Italy, Portugal and France -- will be protected in name, area of origin and authenticity by the European Union stamp of approval. A trade show in Toronto will roll out those products this week.

The power to transform delectable local ingredients into exquisite culinary delights has been perfected at Arzak, an internationally acclaimed Michelin three-star restaurant located on Alcalde Jose Elosegui in the city's east end.

The kitchen is guided by Chef Juan Mari Arzak, winner of such prestigious honours as the National Gastronomy Award and the Chevalier of the Order of Arts and Letters in France. It was Arzak who spearheaded the New Basque Cuisine movement in Spain.

BAR SPORT server Ernesto Garcia Elosua mixes sangria during tapas in San Sebastian. -- Photo by Kevin Hann

Today, the master proudly shares his kitchen with daughter and Chef Elena Arzak, 33.

"He's the boss," smiles Elena, who heads up a 30-member staff this night. "We work well together and everything we make, we develop together. We are different in some respects. I like using fewer ingredients to keep things more natural and he likes more ingredients. We use local products that are in season and our menus reflect that."

Enjoying the elegant ambiance is Gord Mackie, 34, executive chef for Toronto-based Signature Restaurants including Far Niente on Bay St. The chef's tasting menu begins with chilled Chinese dragon fruit. It is followed by sardines and anchovy scented with coriander and anise seed. Next up is a tomato cream tinged with wild strawberry. And the experience is just beginning.

Server Izar Garmendia next offers up some tantalizing, creamy foie gras on mango with tomato puree. This is followed by juicy white and dark crab meat, then shrimp with Swiss chard accompanied by a broth of anise.

Taking it to new heights is a poached egg sprinkled with green truffle dust and warmed by fresh squid ink. Then it's over the top with tuna blackened using caramelized onion and blood orange. It is partnered with rings of squid in a cucumber sauce. The main dish is a medallion of lamb shrouded in a gelatin that is seared to the skin with a coffee sauce that has been poured over it by waiter Garmendia.

Arzak, a three-star Michelin restaurant, serves up such delectable fare as a roasted lamb in gelatin and coffee glaze. -- Photo by Kevin Hann

"It's very vibrant cuisine," says Mackie. "It's very diverse."

Desserts include the ugly chocolate omelette, carob with lemon curd and a brilliant foaming strawberry masterpiece sparkling with grape, kiwi and mango.

The room is alive with apres-dinner conversation as the father and daughter Arzak team visits each table.

Juan Mari gracefully autographs menus as his lovely daughter divulges methods used to create their dishes.

They have given the locals and tourists alike some food for thought and a reason to return to San Sebastian.

BOTTOM LINE

GETTING THERE: Many airlines have flights to Madrid. I flew Air France between Toronto and Madrid via Paris. Iberia Airlines operates commuter flights to San Sebastian from Madrid. The Spanish state railway, renfe.es, offers departures between those cities.

HELPFUL TIP: Seafood lovers will rejoice in San Sebastian. If you're looking for a cheap snack, stray away from tourist-area markets and venture onto side streets where you'll find family-run fish markets displaying the day's catches at a fair price. Add a baguette, some fresh roasted peppers and olive oil and you've found heaven.