There are many fantastic sights in Portugal. Royalty lived in the Baroque-styled Queluz Palace until 1910. (Jill Rigby/Toronto Sun)

See Portugal on foot Falling in love with Portugal Belly up to the pinchos bar

Portugal remains Europe's wonderful little secret.

It is an ancient country, one steeped in history and tradition, where the pace is relaxed, and simple pleasures are held dear.

Pretense is a foreign concept.

At one time, Portugal ruled much of the known world and was a major economic, political, and cultural power. It is a country filled with magnificent castles, palaces and fortresses. Its history is marvelous, one shaped by the Romans, Moors and Celts.

But unlike other European countries, whose histories are well chronicled, whose national treasures are trumpeted, Portugal is virtually unknown.

Name Portugal's president. A Portuguese king. One historical monument. An explorer. Okay, we'll give you Vasco da Gama. Were you even aware of the 1755 earthquake that killed tens of thousands and destroyed much of the country? A famous Portuguese artist? Fashion designer? Architect?

Were this France, Italy or England, the answers would be tripping off your tongue. These countries come equipped with massive public relations machines.

But the Portuguese just shrug. They don't seem to care that they are off the world's radar. Which means there are plenty of hidden treasures to discover.

PASTEIS DE BELEM

Belem district, Lisbon

It is the moment I've been waiting for.

I am seated eagerly in a pastry shop called the Antiga Confeitaria de Belem, home to the Holy Grail of Portuguese dessert: Pasteis de Belem.

Since 1837, this place has been lovingly crafting these lovely little creamy custard tarts using a centuries-old recipe that is supposedly known to only three people in the world.

The place is packed with tourists and locals looking for their Sunday morning bica (espresso) and custard. You watch through large glass windows as women workers tuck spirals of dough into small baking tins. The custard and dough, however, are made behind closed doors. Must maintain that secret.

When it is suggested that you can get similar tasting custards in any bakery throughout Toronto's Little Portugal, Maria Dulce Roque, the confeitaria's publicist, cringes.

"They are not the same," she scolds. "You can't get these anywhere else. Not even here in Lisbon."

Enough hype, on with the show.

The waiter places a plate of these golden yellow and brown beauties in front of me. Tenderly, I sprinkle cinnamon and powdered sugar over one.

I take a bite.

Six tarts later, I am done.

Dulce Roque is right. Never again will I utter such blasphemy.

It is little wonder then Pateis de Belem sells 30,000 of these tarts on average each and every day.

BACALHAU DE MOLHO RESTAURANT

Alfama district, Lisbon

Lisbon's history goes back two millenia. Built on seven hills -- really, there are more, at least it seems like there are more -- and spreading out along the Tagus River it seems that you are forever either going up or down a narrow limestone-cobbled street. Walking is not for the weak.

One of its oldest districts is Alfama, which dates back to the 13th century. Since it largely survived the 1755 earthquake unscathed, the area still retains much of its Moorish ambiance. It is here you unearth a second culinary -- and musical -- delight: Bacalhau de Molho restaurant in Casa de Linhares.

Built in the foundations of an aristocratic house that was destroyed in the earthquake, it has redbrick and stone columns, and an enormous fireplace.

It is here that you can hear the soulful sounds of Fado. A lone singer, usually female and wearing a black shawl, is accompanied by two guitarists. She belts out three melancholy songs, often about destiny, betrayal, death or despair. The emotion is raw, real, and audiences are often moved to tears if the fadista is performing it correctly.

No one knows exactly where Fado came from. Its origins are sketchy, but one school of thought suggests it came from Africa in the 19th century and was adopted by Lisbon's poor, working class.

Most recently, Casa de Linhares became renowned for the musical celebrities it played host to on June 25. The Rolling Stones went there to see Fado's rising young star Ana Moura perform. They were treated to a private show and the next night, Moura joined the Stones on stage at Benfica Stadium to sing No Expectations from the band's Beggar's Banquet album.

Mick, Keith and the boys would have been wise to order the lamb stew. It is succulent. A beggar's banquet it is not.

CABO DA ROCA

Cabo da Roca, Portugal

It is the point "where the earth ends and the sea begins."

Cabo da Roca, the western-most point of continental Europe, is about 40 kilometres west of Lisbon.

Celebrated by Portuguese poet Camoes, I stood here as thousands have done for centuries before and contemplated the view. It is here, atop the steep cliffs 140 metres above water, the ocean breeze gently kissing your face, amid the beauty and the wonder of the sea crashing against the sky, that you pause to reflect on the spot that was once the end of the earth.

Like many of the tourists before you, it is your duty to take a picture in front of the red and white lighthouse here since 1772. Ditto the weathered monument which celebrates the location by pinpointing the latitude and longitude.

And if that is not proof enough, the tourist bureau will gladly sell you a certificate verifying that you were here.

THE CONVENT OF CAPUCHOS

Sintra, Portugal

It is a moving experience, almost religious.

As you come into the clearing, you are met by three looming crosses symbolizing Christ's crucifixion.

The Convent of Capuchos, a short drive from Cabo da Roca along a long, leafy twisted road in the middle of a forested mountain nowhere, stands in stark contrast to the palacial wealth and excess on display in nearby Sintra.

Founded in 1560 by Don Alvaro de Castro, King Sebastian's state counsellor, the Convent of the Holy Cross of the Serra de Sintra was built on a mountaintop amid ancient woodland. Eight Franciscan friars chose to emulate Christ's suffering by shutting themselves up in tiny cells in order to forgo life's pleasures.

It was a simple life, one lived in harmony with nature. The monastery's interior is lined with cork and has the feel of Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs with its low ceilings and small entranceways that constantly force you to stoop.

The monastery was abandoned in 1834 and although it was vandalized terribly since then (including graffiti from a German tourist in 1879), it has been restored and guided tours (well worth the extra coin) are available.

THE CONVENTO DE SAO PAULO

Redondo, Portugal

This 32-room hotel -- in the heart of Alentejo province -- traces its origins to the fourth century as a haven for the Jeronimus Monks of the Hermit Order of Sao Paulo. The structure that stands today dates back to the 14th century. Your room was once a cell (actually two or three) housing a monk from the Middle Ages. Blue and white hand-painted tiles -- 54,000 azulejos in all -- line the corridors.

THE BEACHES

The Algarve

The Algarve, in southern Portugal, features 200 km of shoreline, more than 300 days of sunshine per year, clean, clear water, sandy beaches and spectacular cliffs along with a mild Atlantic breeze.

It's little surprise then that it is renowned for its beaches, or praias.

The larger ones teem with sun worshippers. But there's a beach to suit every taste.

A small sandy praias in the sheltered bay of Carvoeiro, in the heart of the village, is perfect for those who prefer life on the quiet side. Conveniently, bars and restaurants are nearby should you want a change of pace.

And if you take a drive up the Vincentina coastline, there are several small beaches, yours to discover.

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IF YOU GO

- For more on travel to Portugal, contact Portugal Trade and Tourism at 416-921-7376 or visitportugal.com

- Air Transat has direct flights to Lisbon from Toronto.

- Bullfights in Albufeira: Not suited to everyone's taste

- Bar do Binho: Excellent port wine shop in Sintra where you can drink free samples. And they know their stuff.

- S. Jorge's Castle: Fifth century castle/fortress provides an amazing view over Lisbon.