VISITORS TOUR the historic Dallas Dhu distillery outside Forres, Scotland. The initial fermentation used to make whisky takes place in the huge barrels on the distillery floor. -- Fred Seelig, AP

We were barely out of the car, but the distinctive aroma of Scottish whisky was already hard to ignore, permeating the fresh air -- and the parking lot -- outside the Glenfarclas Distillery.

The smell, a heady infusion of yeast and malt, was one my husband and I learned to recognize as we travelled along Scotland's "Malt Whisky Trail."

The route passes through the Speyside area, one of four whisky producing regions in Scotland and home to distilleries, including Glenfiddich, the Macallan and the Balvenie.

Scotland takes great pride in its whisky, also known as Scotch, and is eager to show off to visitors -- even those like me, who are more enamoured with the history of the drink, rather than the actual beverage. The spelling "whisky," by the way, generally refers to spirits distilled and matured in Scotland, while "whiskey" can be made in other countries.

Whisky tasting

Tourist centres are stocked with brochures touting distilleries. There are also signs on the major roads to help drivers find their way to distilleries. It seemed we couldn't drive more than 100 km in Scotland without seeing some type of distillery or whisky promotion.

Our first whisky-related stop wasn't at a distillery, but instead the Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre, an industry association in Edinburgh. The tour begins with a whisky tasting (or juice for those too young to drink) followed by a hi-tech tour.

Special effects, including a three-dimensional hologram, are used to explain how whisky is made, the difference between single-malts and blended versions and how techniques and tastes vary from region to region.

The highlight is a whisky-barrel ride (yes, visitors actually get into barrels) through life-size dioramas that recount the history of whisky making. The tour ends in the tasting room, where, for a fee, visitors can choose from more than 200 whiskies. If you're already a whisky aficionado, the centre might be an experience to skip -- but it's worth a stop for those interested in an introduction to the beverage.

Many distilleries have visitor centres. For a small fee, visitors can tour production facilities and savour a "wee dram" of whisky before departing.

We visited three distilleries -- Dallas Dhu and Glenfarclas in Speyside and Ben Nevis in Fort William in western Scotland.

Dallas Dhu was built in 1899 but went out of business in the 1980s. It was bought by the Scottish Trust, which preserved it as an example of traditional whisky making. A self-guided tour took us through the distillery and past the machines used to make whisky.

After, we sampled whisky that had been blended from what remains of Dallas Dhu's output. The whisky didn't impress us, but we enjoyed the tour.

Historically, distilleries processed barley into malt, a key ingredient of Scottish whisky, themselves. Today, though, the majority order malted barley from outside sources.

The tour was even better at Glenfarclas. We arrived on a weekday morning and, since we were the only visitors, got a private tour from a three-decade veteran whisky maker.

The distillery had just resumed operations after a summer break (something many distilleries do and a factor to consider when planning a trip). This tour was more technical, with a focus on the factors that influence a whisky's taste.

When it came time to try some whisky, our guide showed us how to sniff it and identify the smoky flavour that comes from the peat used to make malted barley. Our tasting was delicious, although it also was a blended whisky. In the Scotch hierarchy, blends are cheaper and less prized than single-malts, which only use one distillery's whisky. Most of the free tastings offered at distilleries are blends.

Our final distillery visit was to the Ben Nevis distillery. Visitors were ushered into a screening room to learn about the legend of The Dew of Ben Nevis -- the key ingredient in the whisky's taste. The film features a giant, aptly named Hector McDram, who narrates the legend of Ben Nevis, Britain's highest mountain.

Afterward, there is a tour of the facility and a free tasting of one of the distillery's blends. For a few more dollars, visitors can also sample the distillery's premium offerings.