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A tea connoisseur in training

By Kym Nelson, special to Canoe Travel
The Ritz is back to the former elegance of the Louis XVI era. (Kym Nelson)

The Ritz is back to the former elegance of the Louis XVI era. (Kym Nelson)
Usually I would avoid any place that is a mecca for tourists, lavishly decorated in gold and has it's name spelt out in neon lights, but for The Ritz, I’ve had to make an exception. This is a place where you'll be on a six-week waiting list just to drink the tea. No wonder tourists have the impression that the English have an excessive tea addiction.

Following a £40 million refurbishment over the last eight years, The Ritz is back to the former elegance of the Louis XVI era. It can also boast award-winning tea, having been bestowed the highest award by the Tea Council (comparable to the "Tea Oscars"). The Council's members are a team of mystery tea tasters who secretly visit London tea venues and hotels in a bid to find the capital's finest brew.

Despite the £32-a-head charge to drink tea, there is a consistently high demand for tables, with three sittings at 1:30 pm, 3:30 pm (the most popular) and 5:30 pm. Weekends are the busiest, but on week days you'll be lucky to be able to book one week in advance, like I did.

Synonymous with royalty, the rich and the famous, it's hard to find out exactly who stays at The Ritz as the hotel has a strict confidentiality policy. The Ritz will divulge the celebrities who used to regularly drink tea here, though: King Edward VII, Charlie Chaplin, Winston Churchill, Noel Coward and Judy Garland. Not enough to quench a thirst for celebrity gossip, but with some further coaxing, I was told that the Prince of Wales frequently stops by for tea.

Walking into The Ritz and into the Palm Court tearoom, I'm overcome by what appears to be a ton of gold. All tables are situated around a gold-gilded fountain, which on its own would fit nicely in a Las Vegas casino. With its lavish furnishings, antiques and baroque mirrors, it’s positively Parisian glamour from a bygone age.


There is a mixed selection of sandwiches, such as poached salmon and roast beef, and seasonal specialties of assorted pastries. But best of all are the freshly baked scones with homemade jam and clotted cream. (Kym Nelson)

The tea menu itself includes seven variations of tea, chosen by the maitre’d. This includes the nutty flavoured tea of Keemum, smoky tea of Lapsang Souchong, favoured by tea connoisseurs around the world, and traditional Ritz tea -– the most popular. There is also a mixed selection of sandwiches, such as poached salmon and roast beef, and seasonal specialties of assorted pastries. But best of all are the freshly baked scones with homemade jam and clotted cream -– all stylishly presented on a three-tier cake stand.

Sipping tea from my gold teapot, on my gold chair, with my gold cutlery and sipping Earl Grey from my English bone china cup (with gold rim, naturally), I surveyed the clientele. There didn’t appear to be many tourists or ladies-who-lunch groups, but a mix of young couples and women celebrating birthdays. Surprisingly, there were no tables of men. I also noted that no matter how much I ate, my three-tier cake stand always remained full -– so swift and courteous were the waiters at replenishing the refreshments. And so they should be, as not only does The Ritz carry out extensive service training on a regular basis, but the waiters also appear to be mind readers as they know exactly what you want without even a mention.

Completing the setting reminiscent of old British aristocracy is the quartet of classical musicians. Although someone may have to speak with the conductor on their choices of music, which included "I Can’t Live If Living Is Without You" and "Nearer My God to Thee," the last tune allegedly played when the Titanic went down. Perhaps it was only me who noticed, but then again, when you’ve got such luxurious surroundings, impeccable service and high quality tea and cakes, it really doesn’t matter.

High tea at the Ritz, Piccadilly is £32 per person and served daily by reservation only at three sittings, 1:30 pm, 3:30 pm and 5:30 pm. Bookings can be made either through the Reservations office on 0207 300 2305 or book online at www.theritzlondon.com.

This story was posted on Mon, October 29, 2007



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