On the water in Venice. (Neil Murray)

On a previous trip we had been day-trippers with limited exposure to the sights and sounds of Venice after hours. Last time we spent two days on our own before we left on a cruise. This gave us a taste of what to expect from our most recent adventure as we had a little longer to linger and explore on our own.

With there being 12 million reported visitors to Venice every year the best time to spend in the city with minimal crowds is after the ‘tourists’ leave the city. Many that visit Venice are there on day-trips and they miss the evenings and early times of the day, which are very special and romantic. The atmosphere is truly magical with pizzerias and many restaurants on the water overlooking Venice. On our first night, as we explored a piazza, we wandered into a church to discover there was a stringed orchestra performing from Spain.

Venice's back streets contain many interesting bars for a pre-dinner snack. In Venice they are called ‘cicchetti,’ which are similar to Spanish tapas. Our favourite cicchetti location is Cantine del Vino oia Schiavi in the Dorsoduro area just across the Academia Bridge. Most items are priced at €1.00 and you can get an assorted plate for about €8.00 Try a glass of red or white house wine for €1.00 to go with your cicchetti, or maybe a prosecco for as little as €3.00. But remember these bars do not stay open late and are often busy so start out early, by 6 p.m. is recommended. Don’t forget the after dinner treat: freshly made gelato is found all over Venice. My wife was taste-testing the fresh peach gelato everywhere.

In a less touristy area, large gardens and the Arsenale (a former ship building yard) host the Biennale. It is a contemporary art lovers paradise with art for most everyone’s taste. It is held every two years (on the odd years). Exhibitors come from around the world to have their work shown in 30 pavilions, including Canada. Sculptures of all kinds are also found along the Grand Canal, so keep your camera ready for crocodiles, penguins, large metallic skulls and giant noses.

Visit St. Mark’s Square at sunset to hear dueling orchestras from the outdoor cafes. Then get out along the quay to look at the visiting yachts from around the world. Perhaps a sunset gondola ride along the back canals would be up your calle?

Don’t forget to visit some of the many other islands of the Venetian lagoon. Visit Murano for all types of art glass including chandeliers and phenomenal sculptures. Take your time and shop around as prices do vary. You may want to commission a chandelier to order as we did from La Cenedese & Gasparini. To see some of their work, visit their web site at www.vetreriacnedese.it.

Little Mezzorbo has a family restaurant with fresh fish from the laguna, a perfect lunch stop. After your lunch, take a walk across the wooden bridge to Burano with its very beautiful houses painted in a rainbow of pastel colors. The island is very well known for its lace. You can often find the women making their lace in or by their shops and homes.

Any time of the year is a great time to visit Venice. Our favorite hotel is the Hotel Ala (www.hotelala.it). We have used it twice and each time the service seems to have gotten better. It has a huge Murano chandelier in the lobby and many of the rooms also have Murano chandeliers and terrazzo floors. There is a roof-top garden for spectacular views. This hotel used to be two palazzos and many of the rooms have views of a canal or the large square. We recognized the same staff from a few years ago both at reception and in the breakfast room. Now about that breakfast – wow -- everything one could want: hot eggs, artisan pastries, fresh fruit, cheeses, cold meats and, of course, cappuccino.

Getting to Venice is easy as many major airlines service the area. You then have options on how you’d like to get into Venice, taking a bus, or a train to the island and then using a vaporetto or water bus to be taken closer to your hotel. Or, you can use the water taxi. More expensive, but more direct if you happen to be jet lagged. Typically a trip to the airport, for example, can set you back 90 – 100 euros.

For a truly magical destination that can’t be missed, stay in right in Venice!