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February 10, 2012

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Destination: RENFREW, ON

On the historic Opeongo line

NEW BOOK CHRONICLES PIONEER TREK FROM OTTAWA RIVER TO ALGONQUIN PARK
By TOM VAN DUSEN -- Sun Media


Shrine Hill at Wilno, provides a spectacular view along the Opeongo Line, a colonization route for Castleford to Whitney near Algonquin Park.

It has been celebrated in song, story, conference, newspaper article and even a government-commissioned study. For a humble Renfrew County highway, that's pretty significant recognition. We're not talking about the same level of recognition as, say, U.S. Route 66, which has been immortalized by Hollywood. Still, few roads in Eastern Ontario have gained so much notoriety.

One writer to consistently put pen to Opeongo Line pavement is Joan Finnigan, a chronicler of Ottawa Valley history for the past 40 years.

Hot off the presses is Finnigan's Life Along The Opeongo Line, a worthy companion on a fall tour of the colonization route linking Castleford, where pioneers began their inland trek from the Ottawa River, and Whitney on the doorstep of Algonquin Park.

Another useful, if considerably slimmer, companion on such a tour is the colourful complimentary brochure Autumn Highlights.

Recently released by the Ottawa Valley Tourist Association, the brochure contains pointers on driving the Opeongo Line, biking the abandoned Kingston to Pembroke Railway bed from Renfrew to Calabogie, and hints on places to see and stay,including package deals. For a copy, visit ottawavalley.org.

Thanks to a rare combination of climate and topography, the Ottawa Valley offers brilliant fall foliage and myriad interesting activities, events and places to visit, says Judy Hugli, marketing co-ordinator for the tourist association.

Hugli says this is one of the best times of year to travel the Opeongo.

A colonization route planned by the government, the Opeongo was to cut westward from the Ottawa River to Algonquin Park, eventually linking up with Georgian Bay.

DREAMS DASHED


Author Joan Finnegan

By 1854, the road was complete beyond Wilno, allowing access by European immigrants attracted by land grants. But their dreams of developing prosperous farms were mostly dashed by rocky, shallow soil, poor drainage and a short growing season.

Later, the road reverted to the Ottawa Valley lumber barons who used it to move men and supplies to their timber stands.

As Finnigan points out, Opeongo country was largely settled by the Irish, with the English, Scots, French, Polish and Germans coming along in smaller numbers. Natives were sent up the Opeongo to the Golden Lake Reserve.

Today, the legendary line and its surroundings remain largely intact, retaining much of their original ambience, including log farm buildings, stone and split-rail fences, and at least one ghost town -- Balaclava -- which still contains abandoned historic buildings.

Other points of interest on or near the line include St. Joseph's Church, built in 1890, which marks the former hamlet of Esmonde; Foymount, Ontario's highest populated point; Shine Hill, providing one of the most stunning views of the Upper Valley; and the restored train station at Barry's Bay.

DIFFICULT LAND

An advocate of officially preserving the Opeongo Line, Finnigan points out past proposals have never panned out, including installing recreational trails and nature preserves.

"All these and later schemes fell upon stony ground ... as had so often the seeds of the pioneers in that beautiful and difficult land," she said.

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