November 5, 2004
Let your taste buds soar
By IAN ROBERTSON -- Toronto Sun
Anyone who has or is considering sampling southern Louisiana cuisine must first get their tastebuds and terms on the right path.
With two basic methods, Cajun and Creole, you need to know the difference if you want to be able to feel your lips move after eating.
Many restaurants offering menus outside the boot-shaped southern state limit Creole-
Cajun cooking to blackened meat and fish laced with jalapeno pepper. But there is much, much more.
First, cayenne is more the traditional pepper. High-heat blackening didn't surface until the 1980s.
While Creole-style is generally much closer to saucy New Orleans and Cajun is mostly the hearty rural cooking of Acadiana or Cajun country, there are similarities. But remember, some of the favourite dishes are not exactly a calorie-counter's heaven.
One of my favourites, gumbo, starts as roux, a flour-paste cooked down with lard or oil and green spices. The thick soup-like mixture is often enriched with okra chunks or, less frequently, ground sassafras powder, or file -- pronounced file-ay.
Cajun, a term derived from French Acadians the British evicted from Nova Scotia starting in 1755, is based on seasonings fishermen and farmers imported or found in the bayou country.
I was told that Cajun cooking remains truest to its origins in the southwest region, generally unsullied by fanciful urban chefs.
A more modern dish that draws on the deep-frying of African roots is Cajun-fried whole turkey, which experts such as Chef Patrick Mould, of the Louisiana School of Cooking, produced in 45 minutes in three gallons of peanut oil -- without a greasy taste. Louisiana cuisine sure changes with the times.
More popular Cajun dishes include crawfish etouffee and bisque, shrimp creole, fried chicken, roast pork, plus gumbos made with chicken, sausage or seafood, served with rice. Exotic versions are made with alligator, turtle, octopus, frogs, duck and quail.
Creole cooking was developed mostly in cities, consisting of more delicate preparation, serving styles and sauces, while often including the same ingredients as in bayou country. Tastes came from Spain, France, Africa, local Indians, with influences from Yugoslavia, Germany, Texas, Italy, Ireland, Mexico, China and Vietnam.
Oh, in case you're wondering, alligator tastes like rattlesnake!
Here are some of the favourite haute spots I visited on a recent taste tour.
SHADY BRADY'S, MANDEVILLE
Chef Christopher Brady and wife Liberty opened this rural-style eatery in an old wood plank-lined store. Boasts the best mac' and cheese, gumbos, fried chicken, blackened spare ribs, meatloaf and smoked "pulled pork" stew. My crusted flounder sandwich with 'slaw was a treat. Budget: 985-727-5580.
McILHENNY CO., AVERY ISLAND
Using Edmund McIlhenny's 1868 recipe, descendants sell the world's supply of Tabasco brand pepper sauces here, a must in many kitchens and U.S. military food packs.
On the 2,000-acre island in Iberia Parish, the McIlhenny Company bottles -- including those personalized for private customers, businesses and even the U.S. president -- come in many sizes, including thimble-tall. Tours, a country store and cafe: 337-373-6179 or TABASCO.com
ALEX PATOUT'S RESTAURANT, MANDEVILLE
Restored after a fire, the setting overlooking Lake Pontchartrain combines old-world charm with a breath of nature and a superb view. Specializing in Creole style cooking, the five-course brunch was worth the drive along local roads. Upscale: 985-626-8500 or patout.com/lakeshore.