|
|
| |
 |
|
|
The turbo Otter made short work of the flight to Webequie, no surprise given the abilities of the plane, but as we landed on Winisk Lake a real (and thoroughly impressive) treat awaited. A large welcoming group was gathered close to the town dock, with pickerel frying, goose cooking, and pots of baked beans, plates of bannock, and platters of onions on tables. It was touching, and just what we needed. Before l960 the present site of the village was a place where people camped while on hunting and fishing trips, and all structures were temporary. Gradually homes were built, an airstrip made in 1970, and the makings of a self-contained northern community constructed. Today, there are water and sewage treatment plants, two schools taking students up to Grade 11, and a medical clinic. Finally, all this socializing, eating, train rides, eating, flying, eating had to stop, and early in the afternoon we loaded the canoes and hit the water for a 10-mile slog against a brisk northwest wind to the outflow of the lake. A good warmup to loosen the paddling muscles and attune the soul to life on the water. Brewster - August 2 We likely only did about 12 or 14 miles today, but it was one long high of fast water. Tashka Rapids was the centrepiece of a superb day, but before it and after it are runs that would satisfy any canoeist. On two occasions we lined and dragged around the top of rapids, then climbed aboard for a tricky race down to the next one. Scenically, this is high quality country - big, open bends, rocky, wooden islands in the river and one tight left-hander that had Handle With Care written all over it. The ledges are big, and stretch right across the river. All under a sky that went from cobalt blue to black in the space of minutes, with thunder rolling across the landscape as a prelude to our daily downpour. Guide's Journal. August 4 Today, we finished off the last of the 'portages', although we have yet to do one. It's not that I have anything against portages. I've done lots of them in my time. They're actually an excellent way to stretch your legs after too many days with your bottom stuck to a canoe seat. I just don't like portaging around perfectly good rapids we could just as easily be running. The trick is to know when a rapid is runnable or not, and, as Chief Guide, the task of scouting and finding a route usually falls to me.
For example, today when we approached Rough Rapids, we could hear from above a deeper rumble that indicated a steep drop, but not deep enough to be a falls. I stood up for a second to gain a better view of the rapid. (yes there ARE times when it is fine to stand in a canoe) I could see two possible routes down the river--one on each bank. The left shore looked runnable but a little rocky. The right side had lots of water, but a ledge system ran out from shore across most of the river, and I couldn't tell if there was enough room for us to pass close to shore. We lined the first chute, and paddled closer to the final drop. Tom and I paddled ahead first to check it out. The water here was swift but shallow, so we were able to get out, standing in the current holding the canoe, and glance ahead at the drop. A barrier of several rocks and a large tree was blocking a clear entry to the run. Tom neatly disposed of the tree down the rapid, leaving me to ponder whether we would be able to manoeuvre around the rocks then cut back into shore, literally within inches of the bank, to avoid the large foaming wave created by the ledge. This is always the hardest part, because it relies on your personal judgement. Usually you get a gut feeling on whether or not you can run it, and it's always best to listen to this feeling. In this case, my 'inner voice' gave us the green light, so we hopped back in the boat, paddles flying back and forth in the water, and Whoosh!, it was over in a flash. We'd managed to hit the route exactly as planned. Then came the post-rapid high, the euphoric feeling you get after any high-risk activity is actually over. We did a quick eddy turn into shore, grabbed the cameras, and watched the other boats follow down, knowing that, this time, WE wouldn't be the ones to go swimming. Guide's Journal August 6 Tonight we are camped about 115 miles below our starting point of Webequie, and halfway to our proposed finish at Peawanuck. The river has settled down in character the last few days. The steep drops and falls that characterized the upper river has given way to a steady and unyielding flow that is working its way toward tidewater around 3 mph. The weather continues to be sunny and cool, although we have had a bit rain every day thus far--this explains why the river levels are high. This year we have a new piece of equipment that is causing a bit of controversy: a water filter. This is actually the first time ever we have ever treated or filtered our water. Oh, I know there are probably many of you who unfailingly treat your water on all of your trips--better safe than sorry. But we take pride in going to places where the water is still pure and unadulterated. Most of the rivers we have paddled have few roads, settlements, or even people living on them. This year, we bought one of those pump-filter units. There's only one problem with it: the water tastes bad. Now I have no doubts that the water is properly clear of all harmful bacterium, algae, bugs, and all that good stuff, but (pardon the pun) it's a bit hard to swallow bad-tasting water on a canoe trip. Now I don't know if this off-flavor is just the residue in the cartridge that will wear off with time, or if this is how it's supposed to taste, but the water has a definite flavour and aroma of chemicals. So far Tom has been the only one to religiously use it all the time,the rest of us tried it for a few days and quit. Brewster August 7 MILE 145, WINISK RIVER: We stroked off 30 miles today, without much effort and with our friendly neighbourhood headwind in more or less constant attendance. Decision-making on a camp site for the night was aided by a huge and ominous black cloud to the west, and we just got the tents nicely set up when the heavens opened. In 20 minutes the rain had stopped, and the sun is now streaming down on camp. And what a camp it is. And how the fluctuating weather mirrors the changing scenery along this river. We're settled on the south end of a large island, sheltered well by willows towards the V where the current splits around us, and to the north by a high bank and trees. Today, after long scenic views down a widening river, we entered a series of islands just before the very pronounced right-angle bend in the river that is the main feature of a map of the Winisk. One of the most obvious features of the terrain of the last 10 miles is the amount of burned land. You can see where the fire that raged through here some time in the last 20 years jumped the river and torched the north bank, leaving in some places a sharp line between charred trees and older growth. Right now I hear a combative discussion going on about where the pasta has been stashed - but there's a counter move afoot to break out the rum and lemonade for a boisson, the traditional voyageurs' end of day libation. I'm supporting that, in case you're wondering. Yes, I think I'd better go out and supervise this. Guide's Journal August 13 I'm writing tonight's dispatch from inside a teepee in the town of Peawanuck. Now, before you paint a rustic picture of spruce poles and canvas skin in your mind, bear in mind this teepee is a little different. It is a fully framed and furnished, complete with walls, shingles, a front door, two beds and a desk, and--most importantly--an electrical outlet. Hudson Bay Polar Bear Park Adventures, the company that runs guided trips out to the bay, has built six of these structures high on the banks of the Winisk. We now have an unbridled supply of electrons to power all our hi-tech needs, and thus can enjoy a sense of abundance and luxury in using these items that has not been possible since we left Pickle Lake. One of the fascinating things of northern travel (or any travel for that matter) is the interesting people you meet. Louis Bird, a Cree elder, caught sight of our canoes and came over to have a chat. Louis is a fascinating character--a living example of the great changes that have swept over his people in the last 40 years. Louis was born on the land, up the coast towards Fort Severn, in 1934. He recalls the days when the Cree lived a nomadic lifestyle, moving from winter camps in the bush to the summer camps on the Bay. There were few permanent settlements. The construction of the radar base at the mouth of the Winisk in the late 50's changed all of that. He was particularly interested in our laptops and satphone. Louis laughed when we told him of how we could send our stories every day so that others could hear about how our trip was going. "We used to have something like that too, you know." We looked at each other in disbelief. How was this possible? Louis described to us the story of the Conjuring House, a Cree practice shrouded in mystery. There were people, said Louis, who had the ability to communicate with others from a great distance away. This ritual, called the Shaking Tent, was performed by certain skilled individuals who had developed the power over many years. We would call this person a Shaman, although Louis said the Conjuror's role was greater than that. The Conjuror was able to summon, through the Shaking Tent ceremony, the voices of people many miles away, and with the psychic's gift of insight. He described the ceremony as a powerful medicine, and often the abilities of such people were recognized at only a few years of age, often when the child would have a recurring series of bad dreams. The child would then receive an extensive apprenticeship to develop the skills. Louis laughed then. "Now, I guess, everyone just uses the Internet" He said that he himself now had a laptop only with a Cree syllabic keyboard, and was writing down the oral histories of his people that he had recorded on tape. He wants to have it written down before it is all forgotten. "The young kids these days" he says "aren't interested in the old ways." Winisk to The Bay SPONSORS Expedition Patrons: Canoe Frontier, Woods Canada Sponsors: Via Rail, Dagger Canoe Technology Sponsors: Infosat Telecommunications, Nikon, Apple Computer, Toronto Sun, Remy Canada | | |||||||||||||||||||
