Destination: GENEVA, Switzerland

The jewel of Switzerland

Geneva's panoramic views and scenic villages will leave you breathless

By K. JILL RIGBY -- Toronto Sun

HAMLETS DOT the wine-growing hills above Lake Geneva. -- (Photos by Geoffrey Ragatz)

 GENEVA, Switzerland -- There is good reason the United Nations chose this town astride Lake Geneva as its European headquarters.

 First, it is in the country that has pledged eternal neutrality in the face of global conflict. Second, in this part of western Switzerland the culture, food and wine are infused with a distinct French flavour. And finally, the region is drop dead gorgeous.

 Long before Julie Andrews belted out "The hills are alive ...", a noteworthy list of famous people decided that croissant-shaped Lake Geneva was the place to live. This is where Stravinsky composed the Rite Of Spring while living in Montreux and Vladimir Nabokov hunted butterflies in nearby mountain pastures. Romantic English poet Lord Byron was moved to pen The Prisoner Of Chillon, Noel Coward bought a house in the hamlet of Les Avants and, in 1922, Ernest Hemingway found himself hopelessly enamoured with the springtime narcissus.

 In such a place the prominent names are only outnumbered by the fountains and flowers. Montreux is similarly characterized by a proliferation of leafy promenades that lace the shoreline, eventually weaving up hills and through residential areas where elegant villas house some of the world's richest people -- numbered bank accounts notwithstanding.

 In addition to its roster of famous residents, Montreux is home to a 35-year-old jazz festival which attracts the biggest talents in the business. From July 6-21 the music of Bob Dylan, Neil Young and Crazy Horse, B.B. King, Joao Gilberto, Chick Corea, Issac Hayes, Sting, Keith Jarrett and Van Morrison, to name but a few, will fill the Savoy Alps with the sound of music.

 A stone's throw to the northwest, the enchanting town of Vevey also lays claim to several recognizable denizens, Charlie Chaplin being the most celebrated.

Swiss chalet in the Alpes Voudoises. -- (Photos by Geoffrey Ragatz)

 In 1953, Chaplin and his wife Oona (the daughter of dramatist Eugene O'Neill) purchased a house in Corsier called Manoir de Ban. They lived there for more than 20 years and are buried in the local cemetery.

 Chaplin was in good company. Journalist and writer Graham Greene died in Vevey in 1991 and architect Le Corbusier designed a lakeside house for his parents which is now a museum dedicated to his work. Victor Hugo waxed about the village's virtues, novelist Henry James wrote Daisy Miller in 1878 while staying at Hotel des Trois Couronnes and Audrey Hepburn took up residence in 1963.

  French artist Gustave Courbet maintained his exile in Vevey at the Bon-Port House. Like every good Swiss, he made regular appearances at the Cafe du Centre where he was said to appreciate the local white wine.

 Every historical resident beguiled by the beauty of Lake Geneva eventually discovered that the surrounding mountains were just as irresistible. No one can visit this part of Switzerland without shaking off their city clothes and lacing up a pair of hiking boots -- for this is the heart of the Swiss experience.

 Dissecting the country horizontally, the Alps are among the most picturesque mountains in the world. True, the Rockies and Himalayas could give the Swiss version a run for their money, but no other range in the world comes complete with a network of rustic huts and gourmet restaurants.

 Barely a breath east of the tip of Lake Geneva, the land rises dramatically to the Pays d'Enhaut, an open valley where the elevation averages above 1000 meters. Here the mountain towns of Villars and Chateaux-d'Oex entertain visitors year-round with their roster of hiking in summer and skiing in the winter (Les Diablerets and Gstaad are only a few miles away).

Swiss chocolate is the best in the world. -- (Photos by Geoffrey Ragatz)

 This is where the handmade wooden chalets are signed and dated by the builder. Even the cows have an aura, most especially in the autumn when they stroll down from the high pasture, their heads adorned with crowns of flowers given to them by farmers who appreciate their prodigious work.

 As celebrated as the cows are, it is their cheese which has given the area its renown. Seventy families are responsible for the small production of Etivaz which is difficult to find outside the region. For a real raclette or fondue experience in a tiny mountain chalet, Leo Crameri keeps the wood fires burning at Refuge de Frience, a few minutes outside Villars.

 To truly engage in the Swiss joie de vivre, every visitor should take time to hike the Alps. In keeping with the British who maintain their labyrinth of footpaths with fine-tooth combs, the Swiss are yet more fastidious.

 Both Villars and Chateaux-d'Oex are perfectly situated for anyone wanting to venture out into the terrain that has inspired countless artists, let alone taken the breath away from ordinary hikers. Plus, when a mountain restaurant is the goal, raclette and wine are noticibly tastier after a strong dose of crisp mountain air.

 Getting There: The Lake Geneva region is located in the Western part of Switzerland. Swissair (online booking available at http://www.swissair.com/ or call toll-free 1-800-267-9477) provides service into Geneva International Airport. The Swiss National Railway system (http://www.rail.ch/) provides connections to every major city in Switzerland and throughout Europe. Its network around Lake Geneva and environs is both efficient and frequent. For more information on the Lake Geneva region visit their Web site at: http://www.geneva-tourism.ch.; Montreux is http://www.montreux.ch/; Vevey http://www.veveytourism.ch/; Chateau-d'Oex: http://www.chateau-doex.ch; Villars: http://www.villars.ch/

 Staying There: Cully is one of Lake Geneva's most delightful villages. Overlooking the water, the Hotel au Major Davel has regular ferry service which transports tourists around the lake. E-mail: aumajor@worldcom.ch for more information.

 In Villars, the Hotel Alpe Fleurie is everything a tourist could hope for with fluffy down comforters, geranium-filled balconies and views of the surrounding mountains. Call (011-41-24) 495-3464 or fax 496-3077.

 The Hotel La Rocaille in Chateau-d'Oex not only has comfy accommodation, it also boasts the town's finest restaurant. Call (011-41-26) 924-6215 or fax 924-5249.

 Eating There: Refuge de Frience, Alpe des Cahux s/Gryon; Tel: (011-41-24) 498-1426.

 More Info: The Swiss National Tourist Office (http://www.MySwitzerland.com) can supply brochures on the region. Call 1-800-100-200-30. The Montreux Jazz Festival is on the web at http://www.montreuxjazz.com
 

(First featured: June 3, 2001)